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Sauces and condiments from Japan

Koikuchi shoyu (Japanese dark soy sauce, honjōzō brewed) — reference process濃口醤油

Koikuchi is Japan's everyday dark soy sauce. Steamed soybeans and roasted, cracked wheat in about equal amounts are grown into koji, mixed with brine and fermented for about 6–8 months, then pressed and heated. It is over 80 % of the soy sauce made in Japan.

Fully documentedSauces and condiments6.1 months – 8.1 months

Recipe

Amounts from a sourceProportions from the Japanese government guide (equal soybeans and wheat, brine 1–1.2 times the koji volume) and two published reviews. The Japanese Agricultural Standard defines koikuchi by its koji, made from soybeans and about the same amount of wheat.
Soybeans or defatted soybean flakesAbout equal to the wheatMoistened, then cooked under steam pressure[soysauce-info][maff-hakko][ito2021]
WheatAbout equal to the soybeansRoasted and crushed[soysauce-info][ito2021][jas-shoyu]
Tane-koji (koji mould spores, Aspergillus oryzae or A. sojae)0.05–0.3 % of the mix (a review of soy sauce in general)[diez-simon2020][ito2021]
Brine1–1.2 times the koji volumeA salt solution of 22–23 % (Ito and Matsuyama 2021) or 18–22 % (Diez-Simon 2020)[maff-hakko][ito2021][diez-simon2020]
Starterkoji/qu/mold-starter (Aspergillus oryzae or A. sojae tane-koji); salt-tolerant lactic bacteria and yeasts come from the koji, brewing containers and brewing rooms

Total time across the recorded steps: 6.1 months – 8.1 months

Start
Drag the bar or press Play
shapes, not to countYeastsMoulds160–180 °C

What changes: Steam softens the soybeans while hot air roasts the wheat

Step 1 of 6
Steam the soybeans; roast and crack the wheat
Time
Not documented
Temperature
160–180 °C
Reported
Salt
None given
Acidity
Not documented
Which microbes the steps name, step by step
Yeasts
Moulds
Lactic acid bacteria

Output: cooked soybeans and cracked roasted wheat.

Flavour
Not documented
Texture
Not documented
Colour
Not documented

Microbes at work in this step

steaming kills or reduces unwanted bacteria, yeasts and moulds on the soybeans

Method

Measured measured in a studySet fixed by a specification or tested recipeReported one source reports itTypical a general value, not sourced for this fermentUnconfirmed not yet checked against a source

At a glance

Koikuchi is Japan's everyday dark soy sauce. Steamed soybeans and roasted, cracked wheat in about equal amounts are grown into koji, mixed with brine and fermented for about 6–8 months, then pressed and heated. It is over 80 % of the soy sauce made in Japan. Made in 6 steps over 6.1 months – 8.1 months. The longest step, ferment and age the moromi, takes 6–8 months (MAFF). Salt is 17–23 % (Ito K 2021). Aspergillus oryzae / A. sojae and Tetragenococcus halophilus do most of the fermenting.

Key numbers
Main step6–8 monthsReported[maff-shoyu][maff-hakko][ito2021]Ferment and age the moromi
Temperature160–180 °CReported[ito2021]Steam the soybeans; roast and crack the wheat
Salt17–23 %Reported[ito2021]Mix the koji with brine (moromi)

What makes this one different

Koikuchi koji uses about equal soybeans and wheat. Tamari koji is nearly all soybean and shiro shoyu is mostly wheat. Usukuchi uses the same koji but more salt and steps that keep the colour pale. Only brewed (honjōzō) koikuchi can carry the JAS special grade.

Related ferments

Variants

  • Koikuchi made by mixed brewing (kongō jōzō) or mixing (kongō)amino-acid liquid from acid-hydrolysed protein added to the moromi or to the sauce; may be JAS upper or standard grade, never special grade

Made the koikuchi shoyu way

Other koikuchi shoyu kinds

Made the same way, each with what its own sources record.

Safety

Koikuchi holds 15–17 g salt per 100 mL (Shoyu Information Center) [soysauce-kinds]. Naturally brewed soy sauce has little or no 3-MCPD. That contaminant forms in acid-hydrolysed vegetable protein, which is added to some sauces [cfs2019].

History and sources

Every number is labelled with how it is known. How this atlas is made

Shurtleff and Aoyagi date the first Japanese mention of soy sauce to AD 775 and the first appearance of the characters now used for shoyu to 1597; John Locke's 'saio' of 1679 is the first English reference. The Japanese government guide says koikuchi arose in the Edo period to suit Edo cooking and pushed out the Kansai shoyu that had dominated Edo; Noda and Chōshi grew into the largest producing areas, and brewing also concentrated in Tatsuno in Hyōgo and Shōdoshima.

  1. [ito2021] Ito K., Matsuyama A. 2021, Koji molds for Japanese soy sauce brewing, characteristics and key enzymes, Journal of Fungi 7(8):658, doi:10.3390/jof7080658paper
  2. [diez-simon2020] Diez-Simon C., Eichelsheim C., Mumm R., Hall R.D. 2020, Chemical and sensory characteristics of soy sauce, a review, Journal of Agricultural and Food Chemistry 68(42):11612–11630, doi:10.1021/acs.jafc.0c04274paper
  3. [soysauce-info] Japan Soy Sauce Information Center (Shoyu Joho Center, Japan Soy Sauce Association), Shoyu wo shiru (Knowing soy sauce) pages on kinds (www.soysauce.or.jp/knowledge/kinds), raw materials and production methodsweb
  4. [jas-shoyu] MAFF, Japanese Agricultural Standard for soy sauce (しょうゆの日本農林規格), MAFF Notification No. 1703 of 13 September 2004spec
  5. [maff-hakko] MAFF 2023, にっぽんの発酵食品 (Japan's fermented foods), chapter 3, soy sauce tablegov
  6. [maff-shoyu] MAFF, しょうゆの製造方法 (how soy sauce is made; honjōzō share and moromi time)gov
  7. [cfs2019] Centre for Food Safety, Hong Kong 2019, The process contaminant 3-MCPD in condiments, Food Safety Focus 156gov
  8. [sic-shoyu] Shurtleff W., Aoyagi A., History of Soy Sauce, Shoyu and Tamari, SoyInfo Centerbook
  9. [soysauce-kinds] Japan Soy Sauce Information Center, Shoyu wo shiru, kinds of soy sauce (salt content by type)web