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Soy and legumes from Japan — Nagano
Steamed rice is grown into koji, then mixed with crushed cooked soybeans, salt and water and left in tanks while koji enzymes, salt-tolerant yeast and lactic bacteria work on it. Shinshu miso is the salty, light-yellow type, ripened for only 2–3 months. Rice miso is about 80 % of the miso Japan makes.
| Soybeans1.3 kg (1 shō) | Soaked 12–15 h in 2.5 times as much water, then boiled in the soaking water[kyoto-tango] |
| Rice koji1.65 kg | Made from 1 shō of rice[kyoto-tango] |
| Salt660 g | Two handfuls kept back to scatter on the surface; gives about 11 % salt in the miso[kyoto-tango] |
| Bean cooking waterAs needed | Added only if the mix is crumbly[kyoto-tango] |
| Starter | koji/qu/mold-starter (tane-koji: Aspergillus oryzae); salt-tolerant yeast and lactic bacteria added at packing |
Total time across the recorded steps: 2.1 months – 3.1 months
What changes: Steam cooks the rice through so the koji mould can grow into each grain
Steaming must gelatinise the starch fully, or koji hyphae cannot grow into the grain. Output: steamed rice.
Microbes at work in this step
steam kills what is on the grain
Measured measured in a studySet fixed by a specification or tested recipeReported one source reports itTypical a general value, not sourced for this fermentUnconfirmed not yet checked against a source
Steamed rice is grown into koji, then mixed with crushed cooked soybeans, salt and water and left in tanks while koji enzymes, salt-tolerant yeast and lactic bacteria work on it. Shinshu miso is the salty, light-yellow type, ripened for only 2–3 months. Rice miso is about 80 % of the miso Japan makes. Made in 6 steps over 2.1 months – 3.1 months. The longest step, ferment and ripen, takes 2–3 months (Itō M) and runs at 25–30 °C (Kusumoto K-I 2021). Salt is 11–13 % (Itō M). Aspergillus oryzae and Zygosaccharomyces rouxii do most of the fermenting.
| Main step | 2–3 monthsReported[aichi-itc] | Ferment and ripen |
|---|---|---|
| Temperature | 25–30 °CReported[kusumoto2021] | Ferment and ripen |
| Salt | 11–13 %Reported[aichi-itc][kitagawa2019] | Crush the beans and mix with koji, salt and water (shikomi) |
| Acidity | pH 5Reported[kitagawa2019][kusumoto2021] | Ferment and ripen |
Shinshu miso uses little koji for a rice miso. The koji rice weighs 0.5–1.0 times the soybeans, against 1.5–3 times in sweet white miso, and the salt is 11–13 %. A short, warm ripening keeps it pale. Sendai miso has the same koji ratio and salt but ripens 3–12 months and turns red.
Salty (karakuchi) miso has about 12 % salt, enough to stop contaminating microbes and so allow long ripening [aichi-itc, kitagawa2019]. The mash starts near pH 6.0 and falls to about pH 5.0 as it ripens [kitagawa2019]. Koji strains used in Japan do not make aflatoxin [kusumoto2021].
Every number is labelled with how it is known. How this atlas is made
Shurtleff and Aoyagi record that the warlord Takeda Shingen (1521-1573) taught farmers throughout Shinshu to plant soybeans and make miso, so that his men had a large supply of it.
