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Sauces and condiments from Japan — Tōkai
Tamari is the soybean soy sauce of central Japan. Steamed soybeans are crushed and shaped into balls (miso-dama), grown into koji and packed with a little salt water. The mash ferments and ripens for about a year while the liquid that pools is ladled back over it, and the thick liquid is then drawn off and pressed. It uses little or no wheat.
| Soybeans, steamed, crushed and shaped into miso-dama balls | Soybeans are the main raw material; some makers use defatted soybeans[maff-hakko][utsunomiya-fc28] |
| Wheat, a very small amount or none | JAS lets makers use soybeans, soybeans with a small amount of wheat, or either with rice or other grains added; Utsunomiya notes tamari from soybeans alone has become a recent development[jas-shoyu][utsunomiya-fc28] |
| Salt water, in a small amount | A little salt water is used for mixing the koji (MAFF)[maff-hakko] |
| Starter | koji mould grown on soybean balls (miso-dama koji) |
Total time across the recorded steps: 12 months
What changes: Soybeans are steamed until soft
Output: steamed soybeans.
Microbes at work in this step
Not documented for this step.
Measured measured in a studySet fixed by a specification or tested recipeReported one source reports itTypical a general value, not sourced for this fermentUnconfirmed not yet checked against a source
Tamari is the soybean soy sauce of central Japan. Steamed soybeans are crushed and shaped into balls (miso-dama), grown into koji and packed with a little salt water. The mash ferments and ripens for about a year while the liquid that pools is ladled back over it, and the thick liquid is then drawn off and pressed. It uses little or no wheat. Made in 7 steps over 12 months. The longest step, ferment and ripen, ladling the liquid back over, takes 12 months (宇都宮由佳 (Utsunomiya Y.)). Salt is 17.9 % (Japan Soy Sauce Brewers' Association 2006). Koji mould (kōji-kin) grown on the miso-dama soybean balls does most of the fermenting.
| Main step | 12 monthsReported[utsunomiya-fc28][maff-hakko] | Ferment and ripen, ladling the liquid back over |
|---|---|---|
| Salt | 17.9 %Reported[jssa2007] | Heat, check and fill |
Tamari koji is made almost wholly from soybeans shaped into balls, not from a loose soybean and wheat mix. It is packed with little salt water and ripens longer than koikuchi. Utsunomiya notes that tamari from soybeans alone is a recent development.
Tamari comes out of mame miso, which is made with salt and soybeans alone. In Nagoya's hot, humid summers rice and barley miso over-ferment and spoil easily, which Utsunomiya gives as a reason the soybean version persisted. The industry agreement puts normal tamari at 17.9 % salt, and the JAS standard asks for no off-taste, off-smell or mould.
Every number is labelled with how it is known. How this atlas is made
The Engishiki of the Heian period records kasu-hishio, a liquid separated from hishio, which MAFF reads as tamari; another account credits the Kamakura-era Zen monk Kakushin, who spread miso making, with the miso-tamari that began soy sauce. Utsunomiya explains that tamari arises while mame miso is made, an old craft (the Wamyō ruijushō lists Shiga and Hida sue-bishio) that grew under Tokugawa Ieyasu, who used it as rations, and the Owari Tokugawa house. Tamari is about 2 % of national soy sauce output, and the Tōkai and Hokuriku regions ship close to 80 % of it.
