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Sauces and condiments from China — southern names, especially Guangdong
Dark soy sauce is the thick, dark Chinese soy sauce used to give dishes colour. It comes from the same long, high-salt brine fermentation as light soy sauce, then is coloured and thickened with caramel, or in older practice molasses or cane sugar. Mushroom dark soy adds straw-mushroom flavour.
| Steamed soybeans and roasted, ground wheat, made into koji | [zhou2019] |
| Salt brine, about 18 % (w/v), added coldabout twice the koji volume | [zhou2019][wu2025] |
| Caramel colour | Dark soy sauce takes more caramel than light soy sauce[wu2025] |
| Molasses or cane sugar (older practice) | [sic-shoyu] |
| Starter | Aspergillus oryzae koji; halophilic lactic bacteria and yeasts in the moromi |
Total time across the recorded steps: 6 months
What changes: Koji mould grows over steamed soybeans and roasted wheat
Microbes at work in this step
Not documented for this step.
Measured measured in a studySet fixed by a specification or tested recipeReported one source reports itTypical a general value, not sourced for this fermentUnconfirmed not yet checked against a source
Dark soy sauce is the thick, dark Chinese soy sauce used to give dishes colour. It comes from the same long, high-salt brine fermentation as light soy sauce, then is coloured and thickened with caramel, or in older practice molasses or cane sugar. Mushroom dark soy adds straw-mushroom flavour. Made in 5 steps over 6 months. The longest step, ferment in brine outdoors, takes 3 months (Wu Y 2025). Salt is 18 % (Zhou K 2019). Aspergillus oryzae and Tetragenococcus halophilus, dominant in the brine mash after about 15 days do most of the fermenting.
| Main step | 3 monthsReported[wu2025] | Ferment in brine outdoors |
|---|---|---|
| Temperature | 28–38 °CReported[zhou2019] | Make the soybean and wheat koji |
| Salt | 18 %Reported[zhou2019][wu2025] | Ferment in brine outdoors |
| Acidity | pH 5.9 → 4.55Measured[zhou2019] | Ferment in brine outdoors |
Dark soy sauce starts from the same high-salt brine fermentation as light soy sauce but is finished with much more caramel, or molasses or sugar in older practice, so it is darker, thicker and sweeter. Sources disagree on rank; one says it came from the later, weaker draws, another that it was thought the better grade.
Caramel colour carries 5-hydroxymethylfurfural (5-HMF). In one study of semi-finished sauces the coloured dark soy sauce held the most 5-HMF, 12.16 µg/g. Heating commercial sauces at 80 °C for 30 min raised both 5-HMF and carboxymethyl-lysine. Ethyl carbamate, which IARC classes as a probable human carcinogen (Group 2A), formed mostly during hot extraction and sterilisation in a study of one factory's Cantonese soy sauce, where levels across the process reached 44.8 µg/kg; dark soy sauce was not measured.
Every number is labelled with how it is known. How this atlas is made
Shurtleff and Aoyagi describe two basic Chinese types, light and dark, with dark from the second or later drawings, often mixed with molasses; they also cite Yokotsuka (1964) that lǎochōu was usually thought the better quality and call the thin type shēngchōu. A 1991 review notes that southern China still calls soy sauce shēngchōu or lǎochōu.
