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Sauces and condiments from Japan — Kansai
Usukuchi is the pale, salty soy sauce of Kansai cooking. It is brewed like koikuchi from soybean and wheat koji, but in a stronger brine, with amazake added to the mash and a lower final heating, all to keep the colour light. It began at Tatsuno in Hyōgo in 1666.
| Soybeans, steamed | JAS gives soybeans with about the same amount of wheat as the koji raw material[jas-shoyu][maff-hakko][hyogo2020] |
| Wheat, roasted and cracked | Higher protein wheat suits the top grade, which needs 1.15 % total nitrogen[jas-shoyu][hyogo2020] |
| Salt water, stronger than for koikuchi | About 10 % more salt than koikuchi (MAFF); 18 % against 16 % (Tate)[maff-hakko][tate-fc28] |
| Rice, steamed and made into amazake | The amazake is added to the mash to round the flavour[maff-hakko][tate-fc28][hyogo2020] |
| Soft river water low in iron (Tatsuno's Ibo River) | Tate reports calcium carbonate of 18.3–23.2 ppm and potassium of 0.95 ppm[tate-fc28] |
| Starter | koji mould on soybean and wheat koji; lactic bacteria and yeasts act later in the moromi |
Total time across the recorded steps: 6 months – 8 months
What changes: Soybeans are steamed and the wheat is roasted and cracked
Soybeans are steamed and wheat is roasted and cracked, as in the Hyōgo process chart supplied by Higashimaru Shoyu.
Microbes at work in this step
Not documented for this step.
Measured measured in a studySet fixed by a specification or tested recipeReported one source reports itTypical a general value, not sourced for this fermentUnconfirmed not yet checked against a source
Usukuchi is the pale, salty soy sauce of Kansai cooking. It is brewed like koikuchi from soybean and wheat koji, but in a stronger brine, with amazake added to the mash and a lower final heating, all to keep the colour light. It began at Tatsuno in Hyōgo in 1666. Made in 6 steps over 6 months – 8 months. The longest step, ferment and mature the moromi, takes 6–8 months (岩井正志 (Iwai M.)). Salt is 18 % (舘博 (Tate H.)). Koji mould (kōji-kin), which makes the umami components and Lactic acid bacteria and yeasts, which make the aroma after the koji has made the umami do most of the fermenting.
| Main step | 6–8 monthsReported[hyogo2020] | Ferment and mature the moromi |
|---|---|---|
| Temperature | 25 °CReported[hyogo2020] | Make the koji |
| Salt | 18 %Reported[tate-fc28] | Mix with stronger brine |
Usukuchi uses the same soybean and wheat koji as koikuchi, but each step is set to limit browning. The brine is stronger, amazake is added to the mash and the final heating is cooler, so the sauce is paler and saltier (MAFF).
Its brine is stronger than koikuchi's, 18 % against 16 % (Tate), and MAFF says the extra salt slows fermentation and keeps the colour from darkening. The industry agreement puts normal usukuchi at 19.1 % salt, and the JAS standard asks for no off-taste, off-smell or mould.
Every number is labelled with how it is known. How this atlas is made
Tatsuno suited soy sauce making because of river transport, soft Ibo River water and soy, wheat and salt from nearby Sayō, West Harima and Akō (Tate). In 1666 Maruo-ya Magoemon developed the usukuchi method there; the trade relates that adding amazake to the moromi gave a good-flavoured sauce. Tatsuno soy sauce reached Kyoto, where around 1700 about 150 soy sauce shops competed, and within 20 to 30 years it displaced Bizen soy sauce there. It went into Kyoto temple cooking and then home cooking, forming Kansai's usukuchi culture. Tatsuno stopped making it in 1944 because of wartime controls and restarted in 1950; in 1971 sixteen makers set up the joint company Tatsuno Kyodo Shoyu. Today usukuchi is about 15 % of soy sauce.
