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Cheese from France
A soft or semi-soft curd is drained, salted and kept in a warm, very humid cellar. Yeasts first eat the lactic acid on the surface; then the rind is washed and rubbed again and again, and salt-loving bacteria turn it sticky and orange and give the cheese its strong smell.
| Cow milk | Munster PDO: raw, or pasteurised at no more than 73 °C for 40 s; farm Munster raw only[munster-cdc] |
| Lactic starter | Sours the curd before the rind flora take over[ritschard2024][munster-cdc] |
| Calf rennet | [munster-cdc][epoisses-cdc] |
| Salt | [munster-cdc][epoisses-cdc] |
| Surface cultures | Debaryomyces hansenii, Geotrichum candidum, Brevibacterium, Corynebacterium, Staphylococcus equorum; or brine from older cheeses[ritschard2024][munster-cdc] |
| Washing liquid | Salted or plain water; for Époisses, water with more and more Marc de Bourgogne[munster-cdc][epoisses-cdc] |
| Caraway seed (optional)0.5–1.5 % dry seed in the finished cheese | Munster au cumin[munster-cdc] |
| Starter | mesophilic lactic starter, then surface yeasts and smear bacteria from cultures or from the cellar |
Total time across the recorded steps: 15 days
What changes: Starter and rennet go into the milk and it sets
Output: curd.
Microbes at work in this step
the starter sours the milk; Époisses is set mainly by acid
Measured measured in a studySet fixed by a specification or tested recipeReported one source reports itTypical a general value, not sourced for this fermentUnconfirmed not yet checked against a source
A soft or semi-soft curd is drained, salted and kept in a warm, very humid cellar. Yeasts first eat the lactic acid on the surface; then the rind is washed and rubbed again and again, and salt-loving bacteria turn it sticky and orange and give the cheese its strong smell. Made in 6 steps over 15 days. The longest step, finish ripening and wrap, takes at least 14 days (Ministère de l'agriculture 2021). Salt is 19–21 % (Ritschard J.S 2024). Lactic starter bacteria and Yeasts Debaryomyces hansenii and Geotrichum candidum do most of the fermenting.
| Main step | at least 14 daysSet[munster-cdc][epoisses-cdc] | Finish ripening and wrap |
|---|---|---|
| Temperature | up to 38 °CSet[munster-cdc][ritschard2024] | Set the milk |
| Salt | 19–21 %Reported[ritschard2024][epoisses-cdc] | Salt |
| Acidity | pH 5.5Measured[bittante2022] | Finish ripening and wrap |
The rind is washed and rubbed over and over in a very humid cellar, so a bacterial smear, not a mould, ripens the cheese. Bloomy-rind cheeses grow a dry white mould felt instead.
Made the same way, each with what its own sources record.
Cheese from Italy, Trentino-Alto Adige, province of Bolzano
Unlike the cow-milk Algund cheeses, it is a raw goat-milk cheese, made only in the grazing season and given a weekly salt-water wash that builds a reddish rind.
Sources: ONAF (Organizzazione Nazionale Assaggiatori Formaggi); Ministero delle politiche agricole; ONAF; US Food and Drug Administration 2016; US Centers for Disease Control and Prevention
Cheese from France, Burgundy
It comes from the dairy that also makes Époisses and is soured slowly and washed in the same way, but it is a tall cheese with no protected name. Its name comes from the Gevrey-Chambertin growers who served it at tastings.
Sources: US Food and Drug Administration 2016; Fromagerie Gaugry; Fromagerie Gaugry; Fromagerie Gaugry; Fairfield Cheese Company
Cheese from France, Nord
A lean Flemish farm cheese washed with beer, ripened in above-ground cellars; first recorded in 1554.
Sources: Wikipédia (fr); US Food and Drug Administration 2016
Cheese from France, Dordogne
Chaumes is an industrial brand, not a regional or protected cheese. It is made with pasteurised milk and commercial smear cultures, where Maroilles or Munster follow a protected specification.
Sources: Savencia Fromage & Dairy; Ritschard J.S.; Sutthiwong N.
Cheese from Belgium, Hainaut
Washed in Chimay Trappist beer instead of salted water, and the dairy also mixes Chimay Blue beer into the milk.
Cheese from France, Pas-de-Calais
A heart-shaped cheese made close to the Maroilles method but with no protected name, and sweeter in taste. It was linked to the Fête des Rats in Arras.
Sources: Fromages de terroirs; Produits laitiers de France (French dairy interbranch site); US Centers for Disease Control and Prevention
Cheese from France, Thiérache/Avesnois
Fresh Maroilles curd kneaded with herbs and spices, once moulded as a dolphin; now mostly square, oblong or diamond.
Sources: Wikipédia (fr)
Cheese from Denmark
Esrom is a smear-ripened Danish cheese like Danbo and Havarti, but rectangular, with a thin supple rind and an aroma that becomes dominated by its surface flora as it ages.
Sources: Fødevarestyrelsen 2025; Ritschard J.S.
Cheese from Denmark
A Danish branded dairy cheese; it is sold extra-aged, when the surface smear has given it an intense smell.
Sources: ICA (Swedish retailer)
Cheese from France, Nord
A Trappist abbey cheese of the Port-Salut line; its rind is washed in brine with annatto, which gives the orange colour.
Sources: Androuet (cheese shop); cheese.com; US Food and Drug Administration 2016; US Centers for Disease Control and Prevention
Cheese from Canada, Québec
Oka is a Port-du-Salut-type cheese brought to Québec by a French Trappist monk. It is ripened on slats of cypress.
Sources: La Presse (Montréal); Laperrière G.; Yang E.; CooksInfo
Cheese from Hungary
Pálpusztai is Hungary's Limburger-type smear cheese. Its Brevibacterium linens smear lets it ripen in two to three weeks, faster than cheeses given lactic cultures alone.
Sources: Kocsis E. 2009; Ács B. 2025; Wikipedia
Cheese from Wallonia, Belgium
The djote of the Nivelles tart is chard, not a separate cheese; the cheese in its filling is bètchèye, a boulette-type cheese of Nivelles.
Cheese from Belgium, Pays de Herve
Remoudou is the richer, whole-milk Herve. In the 19th century it was made from the creamy milk of a second milking. The first milker left the richest milk in the udder, and a second milker drew it off.
Sources: Fromage de Herve ASBL; Terre de fromages S.A.; Terre de fromages S.A. 2023
Cheese from Norway
Ridder is a factory-made Norwegian red-smear cheese in the Port Salut style, enriched with cream. It comes in an unwashed Classic, wrapped in foil and more aromatic, and a washed, vacuum-packed type.
Sources: Mattilsynet (Norwegian Food Safety Authority); TINE SA; Aursnes J.P.; Matoppskrift.no (TINE recipe site)
Cheese from France, Picardy
A small Picard washed-rind cheese, given a heart shape in a 1920 revival; it is no longer made in the village of Rollot itself.
Sources: Wikipédia (fr)
Cheese from Italy, South Tyrol
A large, soft, smear-washed cheese from one valley, made from the milk of cows fed grass or hay with no silage. The curd is not pressed, and it is cooked only when the cheese is meant to age.
Sources: ONAF (Organizzazione Nazionale Assaggiatori Formaggi)
Cheese from England, Gloucestershire
Its rind is washed in perry, a pear cider.
Sources: Culture magazine
Cheese from France, Savoie
A Trappist washed-rind cheese whose cellar flora passes from older cheeses to newer ones; the larger size has less rind, is softer and needs longer ripening.
Sources: Abbaye de Tamié; Wikipedia; US Food and Drug Administration 2016; US Centers for Disease Control and Prevention
Cheese from Boulonnais, Hauts-de-France
Vieux-Boulogne is a northern French washed-rind cheese whose rind is washed with beer instead of brine or spirits. Androuet says the beer's biochemical reaction on the cheese is behind its very strong smell.
Sources: Androuet (cheese shop); Wikipedia; US Food and Drug Administration 2016; US Centers for Disease Control and Prevention
Cheese from France, Avesnois
Maroilles taken to months of brine washing until grey and very strong; it keeps longer than Maroilles and was once made for winter, when there was no fresh milk or cheese.
Sources: Wikipédia (fr); US Food and Drug Administration 2016; US Centers for Disease Control and Prevention
Cheese from Germany
A red-smear soft cheese, close to Romadur and Limburger; the name means 'wine cheese'.
Sources: Forschungskreis der Ernährungsindustrie (FEI); US Food and Drug Administration 2016; US Centers for Disease Control and Prevention
The smear is moist, salty and close to neutral, and Listeria can grow on it. Washing young cheeses with brine from old ones ("old-young" smearing) can carry Listeria between batches, so food safety authorities discourage it and makers now use defined surface cultures. The UK NHS advises eating unpasteurised soft cheeses only when cooked until steaming hot.
Hazards the sources name: Listeria monocytogenes, which can grow on the moist smear and spread through "old-young" smearing.
Every number is labelled with how it is known. How this atlas is made
The Munster specification links the birth of Munster to abbeys founded on the edge of the Vosges in the 7th and 8th centuries. The review says smear-ripened cheeses such as Münster, Limburger and Tête de Moine evolved within monasteries in Europe.
