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Cheese from Hungary, Győr-Moson-Sopron county
Pasteurised cow milk is pre-ripened overnight at 10 °C with a mesophilic culture, then set with more starter and chymosin at 30–31 °C. The curd is cut, warmed to at most 38 °C and moulded without pressing, then brined 24–36 hours. The discs ripen 3 weeks on softwood boards at 13–15 °C and 97–98% humidity, wiped with brine until a reddish-yellow Brevibacterium linens smear covers them.
| Cow milk from the defined area | Cows fed silage and roughage from the area; acidity 6–6.8 °SH, pH 6.65–6.70; fat set to 2.8–2.9%[hu-spec][eu-sd] |
| Mesophilic lactic starter culture (non-GMO)0.1% for pre-ripening, then 1–1.5% in the vat | [hu-spec] |
| Chymosin (the only coagulant allowed) | [hu-spec] |
| Calcium chlorideUp to 10 g per 100 litres | [hu-spec] |
| Salt | As a 20–22% brine, and a 10–12% salt solution for wiping the rind[hu-spec] |
| Starter | mesophilic lactic starter (0.1% for pre-ripening, then 1–1.5%); Brevibacterium linens rind flora mainly from the pine ripening boards |
Total time across the recorded steps: 25 days – 26 days
What changes: The milk is pasteurised at 74 °C for 20 seconds and cooled to 10 °C
Microbes at work in this step
Not documented for this step.
Measured measured in a studySet fixed by a specification or tested recipeReported one source reports itTypical a general value, not sourced for this fermentUnconfirmed not yet checked against a source
Pasteurised cow milk is pre-ripened overnight at 10 °C with a mesophilic culture, then set with more starter and chymosin at 30–31 °C. The curd is cut, warmed to at most 38 °C and moulded without pressing, then brined 24–36 hours. The discs ripen 3 weeks on softwood boards at 13–15 °C and 97–98% humidity, wiped with brine until a reddish-yellow Brevibacterium linens smear covers them. Made in 10 steps over 25 days – 26 days. The longest step, ripen on pine boards with brine wiping, takes 21 days (Földművelésügyi Minisztérium 2016) and runs at 13–15 °C (Földművelésügyi Minisztérium 2016). Salt is 20–22 % (Földművelésügyi Minisztérium 2016). Mesophilic lactic acid bacteria (starter); they mostly break down lactose and take little part in ripening and Brevibacterium linens (red smear), mainly from the softwood ripening boards do most of the fermenting.
| Main step | 21 daysSet[hu-spec] | Ripen on pine boards with brine wiping |
|---|---|---|
| Temperature | 13–15 °CSet[hu-spec] | Ripen on pine boards with brine wiping |
| Salt | 20–22 %Set[hu-spec] | Brine |
| Acidity | pH 5.2–5.4Set[hu-spec] | Mould and turn, without pressing |
A Hungarian smear-ripened cheese, not a plain semi-hard one. Its Brevibacterium linens rind comes mainly from the pine ripening boards, the curd is never mechanically pressed, and fast protein breakdown makes the paste crumble in the mouth.
The milk is pasteurised at 74 °C for 20 seconds. The curd reaches pH 5.2–5.4 before brining, and the cheese must be kept at 2–8 °C from the third week.
Every number is labelled with how it is known. How this atlas is made
Imre Ujhelyi, director of the Hungarian Dairy Research Institute at Mosonmagyaróvár, worked out the method in 1914. Three dairies first made it, at Mosonmagyaróvár, Levél and Illmic; Illmic went to Austria after the First World War. It has been made only at Győr-Ménfőcsanak since 1995, and the EU registered the PGI in 2020. A 1940 dairy manual quotes Ujhelyi's 1915–16 report, which calls the Moson Csemege a smaller, slightly flatter cheese like the Óvári, but softer.
