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Cheese from France
Soured cow milk is set with rennet and the soft curd is ladled into moulds, where it drains by its own weight. After dry salting, a white felt of Penicillium camemberti and Geotrichum candidum grows over the cheese and ripens it from the rind inward in a few weeks.
| Cow milk | Raw, never heated above 40 °C, for Camembert de Normandie PDO; pasteurised for many others[camembert-cdc] |
| Starter bacteria | Sour the milk before renneting; the Camembert de Normandie rules allow harmless cultures of bacteria, yeasts and moulds[lessard2012][camembert-cdc] |
| Ripening cultures | Penicillium camemberti, Geotrichum candidum and yeasts[lessard2012] |
| Animal rennetUp to 23 ml per 100 L milk | Camembert de Normandie PDO limit, at a strength of 520 mg chymosin per litre[camembert-cdc] |
| Dry salt | [camembert-cdc][fao-ramet2001] |
| Calcium chloride | Allowed by the Camembert de Normandie rules[camembert-cdc] |
| Starter | added starter bacteria plus Penicillium camemberti, Geotrichum candidum and yeasts |
Total time across the recorded steps: 37 days
What changes: Starter bacteria start turning milk sugar into lactic acid
Camembert de Normandie milk may be stored at most 72 h from the oldest milking. An optional second maturing of up to 2 h at no more than 38 °C may follow the cold one. Output: matured milk.
Microbes at work in this step
starter bacteria begin to turn milk sugar into lactic acid
Measured measured in a studySet fixed by a specification or tested recipeReported one source reports itTypical a general value, not sourced for this fermentUnconfirmed not yet checked against a source
Soured cow milk is set with rennet and the soft curd is ladled into moulds, where it drains by its own weight. After dry salting, a white felt of Penicillium camemberti and Geotrichum candidum grows over the cheese and ripens it from the rind inward in a few weeks. Made in 7 steps over 37 days. The longest step, box and finish ripening, takes at least 22 days (Ministère de l'agriculture 2013). Penicillium camemberti and Geotrichum candidum do most of the fermenting.
| Main step | at least 22 daysSet[camembert-cdc] | Box and finish ripening |
|---|---|---|
| Temperature | up to 22 °CSet[camembert-cdc] | Mature the milk with starter |
| Acidity | pH 5.8Measured[bittante2022] | Box and finish ripening |
The rind is a white felt of Penicillium camemberti and Geotrichum candidum grown in a humid room. The moulds eat lactic acid and raise the surface pH, so the paste softens from the outside in. Washed-rind cheeses grow an orange bacterial smear instead, and lactic goat cheeses start from a slower, mostly acid-set curd.
Made the same way, each with what its own sources record.
Cheese from England, Suffolk, Fen Farm Dairy at Bungay on the River Waveney
Baron Bigod follows a Brie de Meaux recipe but is made on the farm where the milk is produced, from a single herd of Montbéliarde cows, with the milk gravity-fed to the vats. Unlike Brie de Meaux, which must be raw milk, its milk is gently heat-treated.
Sources: Fen Farm Dairy; Neal's Yard Dairy
Cheese from Bavaria, Germany
Bavaria Blu combines two families in one cheese. It has the white Penicillium rind of a Camembert-type cheese and the blue veins of a blue cheese.
Cheese from France, Île-de-France
A triple-crème created in the 1950s, not an old regional cheese.
Sources: cheese.com; Wikipedia; NHS (UK)
Cheese from France, Loiret
Frinault is a 120 g disc 2 cm thick, made by a technique close to camembert's, and ripens about two weeks. Its cendré form is boxed in grey charcoal ash for 15 days, which gives a darker, firmer rind and a taste closer to Olivet cendré.
Sources: Wikipédia (fr)
Cheese from France, Auvergne
Dome-shaped Auvergne soft cheese with garlic, pepper and buttermilk in the curd; cloth-hung to ripen.
Sources: Wikipédia (fr); US Centers for Disease Control and Prevention; US Centers for Disease Control and Prevention
Cheese from United States, Vermont
Harbison takes the bark wrap of Vacherin Mont d'Or, a European cheese, and gives it to an American pasteurised-milk soft cheese. Its cheeses are brined the day after making, and the spruce cambium comes from the farm's own woodlands.
Sources: Spira S. 2012; Pollak S. 2018; Di Bruno Bros.; Jasper Hill Farm
Cheese from Canada, Québec, Île aux Grues
Riopelle is a triple-cream cheese, with cream added to the milk, made from unpasteurised milk on Île aux Grues. Because the milk is raw, it must be held 60 days under Canadian law before sale.
Sources: Food and Drug Regulations (C.R.C.; Fromages du Québec (Plaisirs Gourmets; ANSES 2022; Health Canada
Cheese from France, Loiret
The old farm Olivet was dusted with vine-shoot charcoal against sticking and insects. Today's industrial Olivets share the name but not the farm tradition; they are 230–240 g bloomy discs sold in blue, cendré, hay and pepper forms.
Sources: Wikipédia (fr)
Cheese from France, Loiret
It is ripened under hay, which dries the cheese so it keeps longer and adds a fruity note. A version with peppercorns instead of hay also exists.
Sources: Wikipédia (fr); CooksInfo
Cheese from USA, California, Point Reyes Station
Red Hawk is a triple-cream cheese, normally a bloomy-rind style, turned into a washed-rind cheese. KQED's tasting report says it depends on the Brevibacterium linens in the West Marin air and cannot be made in Petaluma.
Sources: KQED Bay Area Bites; culture; Wikipedia; US Food and Drug Administration 2016
Cheese from Italy, Piedmont, Alta Langa
A dairy's branded robiola, square and made from mixed cow and sheep milk with cream, unlike the goat-milk Robiola di Roccaverano PDO.
Sources: Zanetti S.p.A.; Culture
Cheese from England
An English Camembert-style cheese from pasteurised whole cow milk, with a thin wrinkly rind rather than the thick flat white coat of most British soft cheeses.
Sources: Neal's Yard Dairy; Butlers Farmhouse Cheeses; Pipers Farm; The Cheese Atlas
Camembert de Normandie and Brie de Meaux are made from raw milk, and the rind loses its acid barrier as it ripens (from pH 4.5 to about 8 in a lab Camembert). The UK NHS advises pregnant women to eat mould-ripened soft cheeses such as brie and camembert only when cooked until steaming hot, because of Listeria.
Hazards the sources name: Listeria monocytogenes, the reason soft mould-ripened cheeses carry pregnancy advice.
Every number is labelled with how it is known. How this atlas is made
Camembert is linked to Marie Harel of Camembert, Orne, at the end of the 18th century (1995 EU registration summary).
