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Cheese from France, Burgundy
Whole cow milk sets slowly, mostly by lactic souring with a little rennet, for more than 16 hours. The curd is cut coarsely, drained in moulds without pressing and dry-salted. For at least four weeks the cheese is washed one to three times a week, first with water and then with stronger and stronger Marc de Bourgogne, until the rind is orange to brick red.
| Whole cow milk | Brune, Montbéliarde or French Simmental cows; used the day it is collected, or within 24 h on farms and with daily collection[eambrosia-59562] |
| Harmless cultures of bacteria, yeasts and moulds | The only cultures the specification allows[eambrosia-59562] |
| Rennet | The only coagulant; the set is mostly lactic[eambrosia-59562] |
| Dry salt | [eambrosia-59562] |
| Marc de Bourgogne | Added to the washing water in rising strength[eambrosia-59562] |
Total time across the recorded steps: 29 days
What changes: Lactic bacteria sour whole milk slowly, and it sets into a fragile curd overnight
Output: lactic curd.
Microbes at work in this step
lactic bacteria sour the milk; a little rennet helps it set
Measured measured in a studySet fixed by a specification or tested recipeReported one source reports itTypical a general value, not sourced for this fermentUnconfirmed not yet checked against a source
Whole cow milk sets slowly, mostly by lactic souring with a little rennet, for more than 16 hours. The curd is cut coarsely, drained in moulds without pressing and dry-salted. For at least four weeks the cheese is washed one to three times a week, first with water and then with stronger and stronger Marc de Bourgogne, until the rind is orange to brick red. Made in 5 steps over 29 days. The longest step, wash with water, then with Marc de Bourgogne, takes at least 28 days (INAO 2006). Lactic acid bacteria that set the curd and Debaryomyces hansenii and Geotrichum candidum do most of the fermenting.
| Main step | at least 28 daysSet[eambrosia-59562] | Wash with water, then with Marc de Bourgogne |
|---|---|---|
| Temperature | 4 °CMeasured[irlinger2021] | Keep cold after ripening |
| Acidity | pH up to 4.5Set[eambrosia-59562] | Drain without pressing and dry-salt |
Époisses is set mainly by slow lactic souring, not by rennet, so its curd is fragile and is drained without pressing. Its rind is washed with Marc de Bourgogne in rising strength. Most washed-rind cheeses, such as Maroilles, are rennet-set and washed with brine alone.
The specification requires a mostly lactic set (more than 16 h) and a cheese pH below 4.5 at unmoulding. Milk is made into cheese the day it is collected, or within 24 h where collection is daily or the cheese is made on the farm. Feeds that risk bacterial contamination are banned from the herd's ration, and keeping milk or curd frozen or holding cheeses in a modified atmosphere is forbidden. The sources do not say whether the milk is raw; Wikipedia says it may be raw or pasteurised. For raw-milk cheeses, ANSES names Listeria, Salmonella and enterohaemorrhagic E. coli as the main hazards. It advises pregnant women, people over 65, people with weak immunity and young children not to eat them, except cooked pressed ones such as Comté, which this soft cheese is not.
Every number is labelled with how it is known. How this atlas is made
Legend credits Cistercian monks at Époisses in the early 16th century; farm women then improved the making. Brillat-Savarin called it the king of cheeses in 1825. By 1940 an estimated 500 cheeses a week were shipped to Autun, Avallon, Dijon, Paris and Semur. Production declined after the First World War and had almost stopped by the 1950s; Robert and Simone Berthaut relaunched it in 1956. It became an appellation by decree on 14 May 1991.
