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Cheese from Netherlands

Washed-curd cheese family (Gouda as template)Goudse kaas

Cow milk is set with a mesophilic starter and rennet, and the curd is cut and stirred. Part of the whey is then drawn off and replaced with warm water, which washes out milk sugar so the cheese sours less. The curd is pressed, brined and ripened on cheese boards for weeks to years.

Fully documentedCheese29 days

Recipe

No fixed amounts recordedFamily template, so the ingredients are the ones washed-curd cheeses share. The Gouda Holland dossier gives no amounts; the step values come from it and from one pilot-scale make.
Cow milkGouda Holland: Dutch milk, pasteurised at no less than 72 °C for 15 s[gouda-dossier]
Mesophilic starterL-type or LD-type lactococci with Leuconostoc[gouda-dossier]
RennetCalf rennet, bovine pepsin or microbial rennet; not from GM organisms (Gouda Holland)[gouda-dossier]
Warm waterReplaces part of the whey to wash the curd[gouda-dossier][decadt2026]
SaltAs brine[gouda-dossier]
CoatingA coating that lets some moisture through is allowed[gouda-dossier]
Startermesophilic L-type or LD-type starter (lactococci, Leuconostoc)

Total time across the recorded steps: 29 days

Start
Drag the bar or press Play
shapes, not to countLactococcus lactisLeuconostoc30 °C

What changes: Starter and rennet go into milk at about 30 °C and it sets

Step 1 of 6
Set the milk with starter and rennet
Time
35 min
Reported
Temperature
30 °C
Set
Salt
None given
Acidity
Not documented
Which microbes the steps name, step by step
Lactococcus lactis
Leuconostoc

Output: curd.

Flavour
Not documented
Texture
gel
Colour
white

Microbes at work in this step

the mesophilic starter begins souring the milk

Method

Measured measured in a studySet fixed by a specification or tested recipeReported one source reports itTypical a general value, not sourced for this fermentUnconfirmed not yet checked against a source

At a glance

Cow milk is set with a mesophilic starter and rennet, and the curd is cut and stirred. Part of the whey is then drawn off and replaced with warm water, which washes out milk sugar so the cheese sours less. The curd is pressed, brined and ripened on cheese boards for weeks to years. Made in 6 steps over 29 days. The longest step, coat and ripen on cheese boards, takes at least 28 days (RVO (Netherlands Enterprise Agency) 2026) and runs at at least 12 °C (RVO (Netherlands Enterprise Agency) 2026). Salt is 18 % (Decadt H 2026). Lactococcus lactis subsp. lactis and subsp. cremoris and Leuconostoc and Lactococcus lactis biovar diacetylactis do most of the fermenting.

Key numbers
Main stepat least 28 daysSet[gouda-dossier]Coat and ripen on cheese boards
Temperatureat least 12 °CSet[gouda-dossier][decadt2026]Coat and ripen on cheese boards
Salt18 %Reported[decadt2026]Brine

What makes this one different

Part of the whey is swapped for warm water before pressing. That washes out milk sugar, so the cheese sours less than a curd that is not washed.

Related ferments

Variants

  • Edam HollandLower fat (40–44 % in dry matter), ball or loaf shapes, often waxed red.
  • BoerenkaasMade on the farm from raw milk, mainly from the farm's own animals; protected as a Dutch traditional speciality.
  • Leyden (Leidse kaas)Made from semi-skimmed milk without pasteurising heat, with cumin seed (about 75 g per 100 L of milk).
  • DanboDanish cheese in flat square or rectangular loaves; large amounts of water are added in making it, and the cheeses are ripened from the outside in under a bacterial smear.

Made the washed-curd cheese family way

Other washed-curd cheese family kinds

Made the same way, each with what its own sources record.

Beemster (polder Gouda)Beemster kaas

Cheese from Beemster polder, North Holland, Netherlands

Beemster is a branded Gouda-like cheese from one cooperative and one polder, below sea level on sea clay, with hand-stirred curd.

Milk
Cow milk from grass grown on sea clay in a polder 4 m below sea level (outline only)
Method
Production similar to Gouda; curd stirred by hand; ripened under changing temperature and humidity (outline only)
Scale
About 475 farmers and about 30,000 tonnes of Beemster a year (outline only)

Sources: Wikipedia; Netherlands Enterprise Agency (RVO)

Bruder BasilRauchkäse

Cheese from Germany, Bavaria

Bruder Basil is the best-known German Rauchkäse. It is a single maker's brand, smoked over birch and spruce wood, rather than a regional cheese with a written specification.

Milk
Pasteurised cow milk
Smoke
Smoked over birch and spruce wood, giving a brown rind
Fat
25.5 % fat as sold (cheese.com listing)
Ripening
Not published

Sources: cheese.com; cheese.com; Wikipedia

Coolea

Cheese from Ireland, Co. Cork

A Gouda made in Ireland by a Dutch family, following the Dutch method of washing the curd with water.

Milk
cow milk
Ripening
at least four monthsReported

Sources: culture

Gammel Knas

Cheese from Denmark

The Havarti specification describes ripening of a few weeks. Gammel Knas is ripened for more than 24 months, so it develops crunchy protein crystals and a fruity-sweet, sour, bitter, salty and umami taste.

Milk
cow milk
Ripening
more than 24 monthsReported

Sources: Landbrugsavisen; Arla Unika

Kalimpong cheeseKalimpong Cheese

Cheese from India, West Bengal

Kalimpong cheese is a missionary import, a European cheese made in the hills, while the local cheese of the same market towns is churpi, made at home by women from cow or yak milk and sold at the weekly haat. It needs space and more time, and it sells to tourists and to buyers in Kolkata.

Milk
Cow milk
Type
European-style cheese, described in a travel guide as Edam-like
Size
Wikipedia gives 1 kg and 12 kg wheels; not confirmed elsewhere

Sources: Bhutia A. 2022; Wikipedia

Karaván (füstölt sajt)Karaván füstölt sajt

Cheese from Hungary

Unlike smoked natural cheeses such as smoked caciocavallo or oscypek, Karaván Classic is a processed cheese, melted from cheese with emulsifying salts and only then smoked. The brand stresses real beech-log smoke rather than liquid smoke flavouring.

Type
Smoked processed cheese (Karaván Classic and Karaván sliced)
Composition
At least 45 % fat in dry matter; per 100 g about 27 g fat, 21 g protein and 2.9 g salt (Classic, label)
Storage
0 to +10 °C (label)

Sources: Kifli.hu; Kifli.hu; Kifli.hu

Kryddost

Cheese from Sweden

Kryddost carries clove as well as cumin, like Norway's nøkkelost; Frisian nagelkaas is spiced with cloves and sometimes a little cumin. A popular dairy version of kryddost is a hard cheese aged nine to ten months.

Fat
31 % fat (Boxholm Kryddost 31 %)
Storage
The retailer sheet says to keep it at no more than +10 °C

Sources: ICA (retailer)

Nøkkelostnøkkelost

Cheese from Norway

Nøkkelost is Norway's version of the Dutch spiced cheeses Leidse kaas and nagelkaas. Its name, "key cheese", comes from the crossed keys on Leiden's coat of arms, which marked the Dutch cheese.

Milk
Cow milk
Spices
Cumin and cloves
Ripening
eight weeksReported
Types
Rindless (27% fat by weight), light (16%) and rinded (17%)

Sources: Aursnes J.P.

Norvegia

Cheese from Norway

Norway's everyday Gouda-type cheese, made by TINE and sold young or aged.

Type
Gouda-type (Dutch-type) semi-hard cow cheese
Ripening
about 3 monthsReported

Sources: Østlie HM; Porcellato D; Matoppskrift.no

Oltermanni

Cheese from Finland

Oltermanni is a branded Finnish cheese that Valio calls a gentle cream cheese. Wikipedia calls it somewhat similar to Havarti. Lighter versions followed, with 17% fat from 1997 and 9% fat from 2008.

Milk
cow milk
Size
small cylinder (1980 gift format)

Sources: Valio; Wikipedia

Turunmaa

Cheese from Finland

It is a creamy, full-fat semi-hard cheese of the kind Finns call kermajuusto, closer to tilsit and cream Havarti than to the Finnish blue Aura or the baked leipäjuusto.

Milk
Pasteurised cow milk
Ripening
2 months or moreReported
Type
Semi-hard, tilsit type (maker's description)
Composition
32 g fat per 100 gReported

Sources: Kespro product listing; cheese.com

Safety

Washed-curd cheeses are pressed and ripened for weeks to years. The UK NHS lists hard cheeses as safe in pregnancy, pasteurised or not, but semi-hard cheeses such as edam only when pasteurised. It says foods made from unpasteurised milk, such as soft ripened cheeses, must be thoroughly cooked, so a young raw-milk cheese of this family is not on its safe list. Gouda Holland is made from pasteurised milk.

Hazards the sources name: Spores of butyric-acid bacteria in the milk; the dairy farm milk behind Gouda Holland is tested for them.

History and sources

Every number is labelled with how it is known. How this atlas is made

The Gouda Holland PGI dossier says cheese traded at Gouda was called Gouda cheese from the 18th century. At first this was cheese made in the South Holland and Utrecht meadow area in a flat cylindrical shape, and later the name was tied to all flat cylindrical full-fat cheese.

  1. [gouda-dossier] RVO (Netherlands Enterprise Agency), Productdossier BGA Gouda Holland (PGI specification), 2026spec
  2. [edam-dossier] RVO (Netherlands Enterprise Agency), Productdossier BGA Edam Holland (PGI specification), 2026spec
  3. [decadt2026] Decadt H., Weckx S., De Vuyst L. 2026 (published 16 January 2026), Application of Lacticaseibacillus paracasei and Tetragenococcus halophilus as adjunct starter cultures in Gouda cheese production, Frontiers in Microbiology 16:1719725paper
  4. [boerenkaas-tsg] RVO (Netherlands Enterprise Agency), Productdossier Boerenkaas, Gegarandeerde Traditionele Specialiteit (TSG product specification)spec
  5. [leidse-pdo] Hoofdproduktschap voor Akkerbouwprodukten 1994, Application for registration under Article 17 of Regulation (EEC) 2081/92, PDO 'Boeren-Leidse met sleutels', EEC No G/NL/00316/94.01.26 (English summary sheet)other
  6. [danbo-spec-2025] Fødevarestyrelsen, Produktspecifikation for Danbospec
  7. [nhs-preg] NHS (UK), Foods to avoid in pregnancy (cheese section)gov