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Cheese from France
Rennet sets cow milk, or in Tomme des Pyrénées also goat milk and a mix with sheep milk, into a curd. The curd is cut to small grains, heated only lightly or not at all, then pressed in moulds and salted. The wheels ripen in a cool, damp cellar, where a rind of moulds, yeasts and bacteria grows on the surface.
| Milk | Raw or pasteurised. A cheese sold as raw-milk cheese is not heated above 40 °C.[cdc-sn2025] |
| Rennet | Rennet only, in the Saint-Nectaire and Cantal specifications[cdc-sn2025][cdc-cantal2019] |
| Salt | Dry on the surface, rubbed through a milled curd, or as brine[cdc-sn2025][cdc-cantal2019][cdc-reb2020] |
| Lactic starter, calcium chloride and ripening cultures | Cultures of bacteria, yeasts and moulds and calcium chloride are the permitted additives in the Saint-Nectaire specification[cdc-sn2025] |
| Starter | selected lactic and fungal cultures are allowed by the specifications; the rind flora develops during ripening |
Total time across the recorded steps: 16 days
What changes: Rennet sets the warm milk into a curd
Output: coagulum.
Microbes at work in this step
starter and milk flora acidify the milk
Measured measured in a studySet fixed by a specification or tested recipeReported one source reports itTypical a general value, not sourced for this fermentUnconfirmed not yet checked against a source
Rennet sets cow milk, or in Tomme des Pyrénées also goat milk and a mix with sheep milk, into a curd. The curd is cut to small grains, heated only lightly or not at all, then pressed in moulds and salted. The wheels ripen in a cool, damp cellar, where a rind of moulds, yeasts and bacteria grows on the surface. Made in 6 steps over 16 days. The longest step, ripen in a cellar and tend the rind, takes at least 15 days (Ministère de l'agriculture 2020) and runs at 6–15 °C (Ministère de l'agriculture 2025). Mucor lanceolatus, a mould isolated from a Saint-Nectaire rind does most of the fermenting.
| Main step | at least 15 daysSet[cdc-reb2020][cdc-sn2025][cdc-cantal2019] | Ripen in a cellar and tend the rind |
|---|---|---|
| Temperature | 6–15 °CSet[cdc-sn2025][cdc-cantal2019][cdc-reb2020] | Ripen in a cellar and tend the rind |
| Acidity | pH 5–5.5Set[cdc-sn2025] | Salt |
The curd is never cooked hard like a cooked pressed cheese (Comté, Gruyère). It is heated only lightly or not at all, to at most 35 °C in Reblochon, 40 °C in Tomme de Savoie and 45 °C in Morbier and Tomme des Pyrénées. The surface flora does a great part of the ripening.
Made the same way, each with what its own sources record.
Cheese from France, Côte-d'Or
A Trappist farm cheese from the monks' own Montbéliarde herd; unlike most French farm cheeses it is made from thermised, not raw, milk.
Sources: Wikipédia (fr)
Cheese from Spain, Asturias
It is a cow cheese enriched with sheep cream, and it is best known smoked over oak and beech after ripening. It is sweet and low in salt.
Sources: Vivir Asturias; Wikipedia (es)
Cheese from Italy, Trentino-Alto Adige, province of Bolzano
It is made from milk half skimmed for butter-making, as South Tyrolean dairies have long done, so it is leaner than the full-fat Algund cheeses; it is ripened at least 30 days before eating.
Sources: ONAF (Organizzazione Nazionale Assaggiatori Formaggi); Ministero delle politiche agricole; ONAF
Cheese from Switzerland, Bern
A modern pepper-coated garlic cheese ball whose dried form is used as a grating seasoning.
Sources: Wikipedia (de); US Food and Drug Administration 2016
Cheese from France, Ariège, the Couserans in the Pyrenees, named after the Bethmale valley
The Ariège tourism board calls Bethmale one of the few cow's milk cheeses native to the Ariège Pyrenees. Its name stands both for the valley and for a plain shepherds' method with few technical means.
Sources: Ariège Pyrénées Tourisme
Cheese from Romania, Transylvania
Sweet caș is salted, kneaded by hand and packed in fir-bark bellows, then very lightly smoked.
Sources: Wikipedia
Cheese from England, Cornwall
Wrapped in frozen wild nettle leaves (or wild garlic leaves), which draw the natural moulds of the rind.
Sources: The Cheese Atlas; Food Manufacture 2010
Cheese from Ireland, Co. Kerry
A semi-soft Irish washed-rind cheese marbled dark garnet by dulse seaweed in the paste, made only from summer milk.
Sources: Ireland Guide; Azure Azure; Taste Kerry; US Food and Drug Administration 2016; US Centers for Disease Control and Prevention
Cheese from Switzerland, Ticino
It is a soft alp cheese, unpressed and once ripened about a year and wrapped in rye straw so it could be carried by horse to Locarno and shipped on to Piedmont and Genoa. A tourist compared it to Gorgonzola stracchini and a 1908 valley guide ranked it with Limburger; Piedmont's tuma d'la paja is a soft cow cheese kept on straw mats.
Sources: Kulinarisches Erbe der Schweiz / Patrimoine culinaire suisse; Rennis P. 2024; ANSES 2022
Cheese from France, Auvergne, Puy-de-Dôme
Like Cantal and Salers it is made from a milled and salted tome, but it is a much smaller cylinder of about 7 kg with no protected name, and it ripens only about 45–60 days.
Sources: Wikipédia (fr); L'Auvergne Agricole 2018; Bignon E. 2013; ANSES 2022
Cheese from Spain, Basque Country and northern Navarre
Gaztazarra is not made from milk but from finished cheese, which ferments a second time in a pot. It is the Basque counterpart of the Catalan tupí, and like it keeps some old ferment as a mother for the next batch.
Sources: Wikipedia (es)
Cheese from Sweden, Jämtland
It is ripened in an old earth cellar, so moulds of several colours, red among them, grow on the rind.
Sources: Nordstjernan; US Centers for Disease Control and Prevention
Cheese from Greece, North Aegean
Mastelo is a grilling cheese of Chios, used like halloumi. Its name is the Venetian word for a milk bucket.
Sources: Kapetanakou A.E.; Facaros & Pauls Greek food decoder
Cheese from France, Auvergne
Murol is a Saint-Nectaire-type cheese with a 3 cm hole punched through the centre, so it is a ring. The plug becomes a second product, Murolait.
Sources: Wikipédia (fr)
Cheese from Belgium
Belgian organic raw-milk semi-hard cheese with a red B. linens smear; creamy and mild; 53.9 % fat in dry matter.
Sources: Kaasimport Jan Dupont nv; US Centers for Disease Control and Prevention; US Centers for Disease Control and Prevention
Cheese from Belgium, West Flanders
Passendale is shaped by hand like a round farmhouse loaf and made in linen cloths, which give it its round shape.
Sources: Toerisme Zonnebeke; Wikipedia
Cheese from Italy, Trentino-Alto Adige, Prov. Bolzano
A Val Pusteria mountain cheese made in dairies from pasteurised milk, semi-cooked at 40 °C; the sheet likens it to Fontal and dates local dairy production to just after the Second World War.
Sources: ONAF (Organizzazione Nazionale Assaggiatori Formaggi)
Cheese from Portugal, Beiras
Small goat cheeses where the dried 'seco' is simply salted leftover fresh cheese.
Cheese from Portugal, Algarve
Made from the milk of the Algarvia goat, a regional breed, and made with a little cardo; in the record cheese one quarter was also flavoured with oregano.
Cheese from Portugal, Baixo Alentejo along the lower Guadiana
The fresh cheese is made from boiled milk set with cardoon and eaten fresh; the dried seco is preserved under olive oil or salt rather than ripened in a cave.
Cheese from Spain, Valencian Community
Sweetish low-salt goat disc with esparto-weave sides; sometimes kept in brine.
Sources: Wikipedia (es)
Cheese from Bolivia, Chaco
Salt-in-curd pressed farm cheese of the Bolivian Chaco cattle country; described only by one producer.
Sources: Engormix forum 'Cómo fabricar quesos' (producer from Camiri)
Cheese from Spain, Castile and León
An unpressed, unripened fresh rennet cheese of mixed cow and sheep milk, graded by its sheep-milk share. Ultrafiltration, plant coagulants and curd pressing are all excluded.
Sources: Ministerio de Agricultura; Real Decreto 1113/2006 of 29 September; AgroNews Castilla y León; Otero A.
Cheese from Spain, Valencian Community
Queso de cassoleta is named after its little casserole-shaped mould. It may use goat, cow or sheep milk, alone or mixed.
Sources: Wikipedia (es)
Cheese from Spain, Asturias
Plain or studded with hazelnuts or walnuts; Wikipedia calls it the only cheese made in Spain with nuts in the paste, and Turismo Asturias the only one in Asturias.
Sources: Vivir Asturias; Wikipedia (es)
Cheese from Dominican Republic
Firm, salty fresh white cheese with a very high melting point: it holds its shape when fried, so it is sliced and fried (queso frito) for breakfast. Halloumi is the closest substitute.
Sources: Dominican Cooking
Cheese from Mexico, Veracruz
Fresh pressed cow cheese wrapped in wetland-plant leaves that slow moisture loss in the hot coast climate and add herbal notes; traditional recipe is only milk, salt and rennet.
Sources: DairyNews.today
Cheese from Spain, Valencian Community
Shaped by a tied napkin instead of a mould, giving a globe with a top knot.
Sources: Wikipedia (es)
Cheese from Spain, Asturias
Soft rectangular farmhouse cow cheese of one family (Collera).
Sources: Wikipedia (es)
Cheese from Spain, Castile and León
Queso de Villalón is eaten within a day or two and is similar to Queso de Burgos. A 2017 study notes it is also called Pata mulo, the name of the ripened cheese made from Villalón cheeses that went unsold.
Sources: Rodríguez L.A.; Wikipedia (es)
Cheese from Spain, Canary Islands
Mixed raw-milk island cheese smoked over cactus pads and fig wood; fresh one fills the quesadilla herreña.
Sources: Wikipedia (es); US Centers for Disease Control and Prevention
Cheese from Venezuela, Zulia
Zulia's fresh white cheese with gas holes; Wikipedia calls palmizulia a softer type of palmita.
Cheese from Italy, Trentino-Alto Adige
Räucherkäse is a fresh cheese that is cold-smoked, which the ONAF sheet calls a clash between the old habit of smoking for keeping and a young, sour paste. The smoke comes from conifer sawdust.
Sources: ONAF (Organizzazione Nazionale Assaggiatori Formaggi); ONAF; Sennerei Drei Zinnen / Latteria Tre Cime (Toblach)
Cheese from Switzerland, Ticino
The Ticino robiola is a small fresh rennet cheese that differs from Italian robiola in taste, texture and shape. Its sweet taste comes from a milk that is not acidified, unlike the büscion of the same canton. In 1913 the milk was only warmed to 28 °C and no culture was added.
Sources: Kulinarisches Erbe der Schweiz / Patrimoine culinaire suisse
Cheese from Italy, Trentino-Alto Adige, province of Bolzano
It is a large, pressed, semi-cooked mountain cheese whose rind is scraped and brushed every day to clear a fine mould down, which leaves the rind grey-brown and wrinkled.
Sources: ONAF (Organizzazione Nazionale Assaggiatori Formaggi); Elenco nazionale dei prodotti agroalimentari tradizionali (art. 12
Cheese from Italy, Lazio
A goat-milk version of the soft cow stracchino of northern Italy, which Lazio goat keepers made as an alternative to 'primo sale'; it is eaten fresh after a single coarse cut and a warm stewing.
Sources: Regione Lazio / ARSIAL; ONAF (Organizzazione Nazionale Assaggiatori Formaggi); ONAF; US Centers for Disease Control and Prevention
Cheese from Eastern and central Switzerland
Sold under red, green and yellow labels that tell raw, partly thermised milk from pasteurised milk and creamed milk, each with its own ripening time.
Sources: Tilsiter Switzerland; Tilsiter Switzerland; Tilsiter Switzerland; Fuchsmann P.; US Food and Drug Administration 2016; ANSES 2022
Cheese from Italy, Trentino-Alto Adige, province of Bolzano
It was designed as a bar, not a wheel, so it travels and slices easily. The curd is moulded without pressing and ripened only about 6 weeks, which made it a way to use surplus milk.
Sources: ONAF (national organisation of cheese tasters); Ministero delle politiche agricole; ONAF
Cheese from France, Dordogne
A Trappist abbey cheese ripened at the abbey, with a walnut-ripened version beside it. The monks made it from raw milk from 1868, but since 1999 the young cheeses are bought from a dairy and only ripened at the abbey.
Sources: Wikipédia (fr); Pudlowski G.
ANSES names short-ripened uncooked pressed raw-milk cheeses such as morbier, reblochon and saint-nectaire among the main sources of hazards in French raw-milk cheese, which it says include Salmonella, enterohaemorrhagic E. coli and Listeria. It advises pregnant women, young children, people over 65 and people with weak immunity not to eat raw-milk cheeses other than cooked pressed ones such as gruyère or comté. Too little salt lets Mucor grow into the defect called "cat hair" (poil de chat).
Every number is labelled with how it is known. How this atlas is made
The Reblochon specification traces its name to "reblâche", the second milking of a rented alpine pasture, a practice it dates to the 13th century, and says trade grew in the 19th century. The Saint-Nectaire specification says the name appears in cooking in the 17th century, and that its appellation rests on a judgment of the Issoire court in 1955. The Cantal specification says Diderot and d'Alembert's encyclopedia pictured its making in the 18th century and that it became an AOC by decree of 19 February 1980. The Tomme des Pyrénées specification dates the first cooperative dairies to 1867.
