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Cheese from France, Italy, England, Spain and Denmark
Milk is set with rennet and Penicillium roqueforti spores, and the curd is drained without pressing so it stays open. The cheese is salted dry and pierced with needles, and air in the channels lets the blue mould grow through the paste in cool, humid caves or cellars.
| Milk | Roquefort PDO: raw, whole ewe milk; Stilton PDO: pasteurised cow milk[roquefort-cdc][stilton-spec] |
| Lactic starter | Lactococcus lactis in Cabrales; lactic ferments in Gorgonzola[rodriguez2025][gorgonzola-onaf] |
| Penicillium roqueforti spores | Roquefort PDO: powders or cultures made from traditional strains isolated in the Roquefort caves[roquefort-cdc][stilton-spec] |
| Rennet | [roquefort-cdc][stilton-spec] |
| Dry salt | [roquefort-cdc][gorgonzola-onaf] |
| Starter | lactic starter plus Penicillium roqueforti spores |
Total time across the recorded steps: 17 days – 21 days
What changes: Rennet and blue mould spores go into the milk and it sets
Output: curd.
Microbes at work in this step
the starter sours the milk; mould spores go into the milk or later onto the curd
Measured measured in a studySet fixed by a specification or tested recipeReported one source reports itTypical a general value, not sourced for this fermentUnconfirmed not yet checked against a source
Milk is set with rennet and Penicillium roqueforti spores, and the curd is drained without pressing so it stays open. The cheese is salted dry and pierced with needles, and air in the channels lets the blue mould grow through the paste in cool, humid caves or cellars. Made in 6 steps over 17 days – 21 days. The longest step, ripen in caves or cellars as the blue grows, takes at least 14 days (Ministère de l'agriculture 2025) and runs at 2–7 °C (ONAF (Organizzazione Nazionale Assaggiatori F…). Lactococcus lactis, used as a starter in long-ripened Cabrales and Penicillium roqueforti (blue veins), the starter mould in long-ripened Cabrales do most of the fermenting.
| Main step | at least 14 daysSet[roquefort-cdc] | Ripen in caves or cellars as the blue grows |
|---|---|---|
| Temperature | 2–7 °CReported[gorgonzola-onaf] | Ripen in caves or cellars as the blue grows |
| Acidity | pH 6.6Measured[bittante2022] | Wrap and mature slowly |
The curd is never pressed, so it stays open, and the cheese is pierced so air reaches the inside. That lets Penicillium roqueforti grow through the paste rather than only on the rind, as bloomy-rind moulds do.
Made the same way, each with what its own sources record.
Cheese from Finland, Äänekoski
It is a Roquefort-style blue made from cow milk, with a short ripening of about two weeks in the cellar and six weeks in cold storage. Aura Gold is ripened twice as long.
Sources: Aamuset; Wikipedia; Wikipedia (fi)
Cheese from United States, Vermont, Greensboro
A cheese writer says the milk's quality comes through, unhindered by the intensity, acidity or peppery notes found in nearly all blue cheeses. It keeps a natural rind, and each wheel is pierced by hand only after the affineur has checked the curd.
Sources: Jasper Hill Farm; Levy WM. 2015. Bayley Hazen Blue; US Food and Drug Administration 2016
Cheese from England, Devon, Ticklemore Cheese Dairy at Totnes
Beenleigh Blue borrows Roquefort's methods, sheep's milk and Penicillium roqueforti, but it is made in Devon from pasteurised milk with a vegetarian coagulant and tastes quite different. It is wrapped at a few weeks old, so it never forms a rind.
Sources: Ticklemore Cheese Dairy; Neal's Yard Dairy
Cheese from Germany, Bavaria, Bergader Privatkäserei at Waging am See and Bad Aibling
Edelpilzkäse is the German standard blue; it may be made from cow's or sheep's milk but may ripen only with Penicillium roqueforti, and its needle holes must stay visible. Bergader's version is a dairy-made Bavarian blue from Alpine-foothill cow's milk.
Sources: Käseverordnung (German Cheese Ordinance); Bergader Privatkäserei
Cheese from Canada, Québec, the Abbey of Saint-Benoît-du-Lac on Lake Memphrémagog
Unlike the abbey's Swiss-type cheeses, which are vacuum-packed and kept warm and dry, its blue cheeses are ripened unwrapped in cold, humid cellars. Bleu Bénédictin is a monastery cheese made from pasteurised local milk.
Sources: Abbaye de Saint-Benoît-du-Lac
Cheese from France, Savoie, Maurienne, the Termignon valley in the Vanoise National Park
Almost all blue cheeses are seeded with cultured Penicillium roqueforti and pierced. Bleu de Termignon gets its blue on its own, spreading in from the rind through a loose curd, and its mould belongs to a genetically distinct population specific to Termignon cheeses.
Sources: Crequer E; Mons Cheesemongers; Finney C. 2021. Blessed are the cheesemakers; US Food and Drug Administration 2016
Cheese from Switzerland, canton of Neuchâtel
Bleuchâtel is a soft, creamy blue from a dairy in Les Ponts-de-Martel that also makes Gruyère, and is ripened only about a month. Its name joins "bleu" and Neuchâtel.
Sources: Fromagerie Les Martel; Wikipédia (fr); NHS
Cheese from England, Cornwall
A young, mild blue meant to be eaten soon after making, unlike Stilton, and set with vegetarian rennet.
Sources: CooksInfo; cheese.com; Pong Cheese
Cheese from Ireland, Co. Tipperary
One of Ireland's few sheep-milk blue cheeses and the ewe-milk sister of cow-milk Cashel Blue. Its supply follows the ewes' season; it can be sold at 12 weeks but improves over many months.
Sources: Cashel Blue (Cashel Farmhouse Cheesemakers); The Cheese Atlas; Wikipedia
Cheese from Norway, Nordmøre
Kraftkar is a cream-enriched farm blue from Norway, with 65% fat in dry matter, ripened about six months. A twelve-month Kraftkar was named World Champion Cheese in 2016.
Sources: Store norske leksikon; NHS
Cheese from Scotland, Lanarkshire
Lanark Blue is a Scottish blue made from raw ewes' milk, like Roquefort, but on one farm, from a flock milked only from January to September. The cheeses are wrapped in foil after a month to stop mould growing on the surface, and hand-scraped before sale.
Sources: Holmyard N. 2022; The Cheese Lady; NHS; Health Canada; House of Lords; Food Safety News
Cheese from Wales, West Wales
A mild, soft Welsh farmhouse blue from organic cow milk, made by hand by a small family dairy.
Sources: Abel & Cole
Cheese from France, Savoie
A farmhouse goat-and-cow cheese built up over five days from successive batches of curd, with an uncooked pressed paste; despite the name, the retail listing does not describe added blue mould.
Sources: Fromagerie Janin; ANSES 2022
Cheese from Spain, Asturias
Queso de La Peral is a mild, buttery blue made by a single dairy, moulded without pressing and sometimes enriched with sheep cream. It is often compared with Roquefort but uses cow milk.
Sources: Vivir Asturias; Wikipedia (es)
Cheese from United States, southern Oregon, Rogue Valley
Wrapped in Syrah grape leaves soaked in pear spirits after nearly a year of ageing, and made only from autumn milk as a yearly vintage.
Sources: Rogue Creamery; Brockman L. 2015
Cheese from England, Nottinghamshire
Shropshire Blue is made much like Stilton but coloured orange with annatto, and it is made in Nottinghamshire, not Shropshire. No protected-name specification was found for it.
Sources: Neal's Yard Dairy
Cheese from Collingthwaite Farm, Welbeck Estate, Nottinghamshire, England
Stichelton is made the Stilton way, with ladled, slowly drained and milled curd, but from raw milk. The Stilton PDO requires pasteurised milk, so it cannot use the name.
Sources: Stichelton Dairy; Defra; US Centers for Disease Control and Prevention
Roquefort is made from raw ewe milk; Stilton must be made from pasteurised milk. The UK NHS advises pregnant women to eat soft blue-veined cheeses such as gorgonzola and roquefort only when cooked until steaming hot, pasteurised or not, because of Listeria. US blue cheese must be at least 60 days old (21 CFR 133.106).
Hazards the sources name: Listeria monocytogenes, the reason soft blue cheeses carry pregnancy advice.
Every number is labelled with how it is known. How this atlas is made
The Roquefort specification dates the cheese's first mention to 1070, in the cartulary of the abbey of Conques. In 1666 the Parliament of Toulouse confirmed the royal privileges granted since Charles VI to protect the name and gave the people of Roquefort-sur-Soulzon the sole right to ripen it. A law of 26 July 1925 made Roquefort the first cheese recognised as an appellation d'origine.
