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Cheese from Asturias, Spain
Raw cow milk, alone or mixed with sheep or goat milk in spring and summer, is set slowly with a little animal rennet at 22–35 °C. The curd is cut to 1–2 cm, self-pressed in moulds, dry-salted on both faces and aired for about 15 days. The cheeses then ripen at least two months from the curd date, mostly in natural limestone caves where blue mould colonises them.
| Raw whole milk | Cow, sheep or goat, or a mix of two or three; no preservatives[cabrales-pliego] |
| Animal rennet | A small amount, so the milk sets slowly[cabrales-pliego] |
| Dry salt | Sprinkled on each face in turn[cabrales-pliego] |
| Lactococcus lactis starter and Penicillium roqueforti spores | Now common practice; the cheese was once made with neither[rodriguez2025] |
| Starter | traditionally none; a native Lactococcus lactis starter and P. roqueforti spores are now common |
Total time across the recorded steps: 2.6 months – 2.7 months
What changes: A little rennet sets the raw milk slowly into a soft, acid curd
One study describes evening and morning milk curdled at 28–30 °C. Output: curd.
Microbes at work in this step
a mixed lactic and rennet set
Measured measured in a studySet fixed by a specification or tested recipeReported one source reports itTypical a general value, not sourced for this fermentUnconfirmed not yet checked against a source
Raw cow milk, alone or mixed with sheep or goat milk in spring and summer, is set slowly with a little animal rennet at 22–35 °C. The curd is cut to 1–2 cm, self-pressed in moulds, dry-salted on both faces and aired for about 15 days. The cheeses then ripen at least two months from the curd date, mostly in natural limestone caves where blue mould colonises them. Made in 6 steps over 2.6 months – 2.7 months. The longest step, ripen in a mountain cave, takes at least 2 months (Principado de Asturias) and runs at 6–10 °C (Principado de Asturias). Lactococcus lactis and Penicillium roqueforti do most of the fermenting.
| Main step | at least 2 monthsSet[cabrales-pliego] | Ripen in a mountain cave |
|---|---|---|
| Temperature | 6–10 °CSet[cabrales-pliego] | Ripen in a mountain cave |
The rules require no added Penicillium; the mould has traditionally come from the cave air, although adding spores is now common. The milk is raw and may be a mix of cow, sheep and goat.
Raw-milk cheese ripened at least two months. A study of 16 long-ripened Cabrales cheeses (exact age not known, perhaps 6–12 months) found coliforms and Enterobacteriaceae below the culture detection limit (2 log CFU/g) and few DNA reads from pathogens. Its authors say the DNA results point to a microbiologically safe cheese, but viable pathogens were not tested for, apart from S. aureus, and they call the sample small. The same study found moderate to high biogenic amines; histamine and tyramine can reach levels of concern, though the small portions usually eaten make poisoning by them unlikely; the authors advise sensitive people or those taking MAO inhibitors to avoid aged cheeses.
Every number is labelled with how it is known. How this atlas is made
The specification says Cabrales began as a shepherds' cheese made in the summer high pastures, with the milk of cows and of sheep and goats mixed, and so a seasonal cheese. It now makes it all year, using only cow milk outside spring and summer. The specification cites Jovellanos (18th century), Madoz's geographic dictionary (early 19th century) and cheeses shown at the 1857 Madrid agricultural exhibition. A ministerial order of 9 May 1981 gave the denomination provisional recognition. Cheeses were once wrapped in plágano leaves for market; food-grade paper has replaced them.
