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Cheese from England
Pasteurised cow milk from three English counties is set with a starter and rennet, and the curd is left until the next day, then milled to walnut-size pieces, salted and tipped into tall moulds with no pressing. The cheese drains for up to a week, its surface is smoothed into a coat, and at about six weeks it is pierced so the blue mould can grow.
| Pasteurised cow milk | From the three counties; in a shortage, from listed neighbouring counties. It may be standardised by season[defra-spec] |
| Starter culture | Lactococcus lactis in studies of Stilton[defra-spec][ercolini2003] |
| Rennet | Animal or non-animal coagulant[defra-spec] |
| Penicillium roqueforti | Added to the milk or sprayed on the curd; not used for White Stilton[defra-spec] |
| Salt | Mixed into the milled curd before moulding[defra-spec] |
| Starter | mesophilic lactic starter (Lactococcus lactis) plus Penicillium roqueforti |
Total time across the recorded steps: 49 days – 3 months
What changes: Starter, rennet and blue mould spores go into pasteurised milk and it sets
The specification sets no temperature or time for this step. Output: curd.
Microbes at work in this step
the starter begins souring the milk; mould spores go in with it
Measured measured in a studySet fixed by a specification or tested recipeReported one source reports itTypical a general value, not sourced for this fermentUnconfirmed not yet checked against a source
Pasteurised cow milk from three English counties is set with a starter and rennet, and the curd is left until the next day, then milled to walnut-size pieces, salted and tipped into tall moulds with no pressing. The cheese drains for up to a week, its surface is smoothed into a coat, and at about six weeks it is pierced so the blue mould can grow. Made in 7 steps over 49 days – 3 months. The longest step, ripen as the blue veins grow, takes 42 days – 2.8 months (Defra 2013). Lactococcus lactis (starter), about 70 % of colonies seen in the core and Penicillium roqueforti do most of the fermenting.
| Main step | 42 days – 2.8 monthsSet[defra-spec] | Ripen as the blue veins grow |
|---|---|---|
| Acidity | pH 6Reported[mugampoza2020] | Ripen as the blue veins grow |
Stilton is made with no applied pressure, and its curd waits until the next day before it is milled and salted. Only pasteurised milk from the three counties is allowed, with milk from listed neighbouring counties permitted in times of shortage. Roquefort, by contrast, uses raw ewe milk, is not milled, and ripens in natural caves.
The specification allows only pasteurised milk.
Every number is labelled with how it is known. How this atlas is made
The specification says the cheese took its name from the Bell Inn at Stilton, a coaching stop on the London to York road, where it was first sold to the public. It cites Daniel Defoe in 1727 passing through Stilton, "a town famous for cheese". From the middle of the 18th century nearly all of it was made on farms in Leicestershire, later also in Nottinghamshire and Derbyshire. In 1911 twelve farmers met at Long Clawson and formed a company to make it, the first of several cooperatives set up to make it in better conditions than on the farm.
