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Cheese from Spain
Whole ewe milk is set with rennet, often lamb rennet paste, and the fine curd is stirred and warmed, from about 28–40 °C for Manchego to 45–48 °C for Pecorino Romano. The curd is pressed in patterned moulds, salted in brine or dry, and aged from a month to two years.
| Whole ewe milk | Manchego PDO: Manchega ewes, at least 6.5 % fat and 4.5 % protein; Pecorino Romano PDO: raw or thermised at no more than 68 °C for 15 s[manchego-pliego][romano-onaf] |
| Lactic starter | Pecorino Romano PDO: scotta-innesto, a natural culture grown daily on whey from ricotta making[romano-onaf][chessa2021] |
| Rennet | Pecorino Romano PDO: lamb rennet paste from suckling lambs of the area; Manchego PDO: natural rennet or authorised enzymes[romano-onaf][manchego-pliego] |
| Salt | Dry, in brine, or both[manchego-pliego][romano-onaf] |
| Starter | natural culture of autochthonous thermophilic lactic acid bacteria (scotta-innesto, in Pecorino Romano) |
Total time across the recorded steps: 30 days – 3.3 months
What changes: Starter and rennet go into warm ewe milk and it sets to a firm gel
Output: curd.
Microbes at work in this step
the starter begins souring the milk
Measured measured in a studySet fixed by a specification or tested recipeReported one source reports itTypical a general value, not sourced for this fermentUnconfirmed not yet checked against a source
Whole ewe milk is set with rennet, often lamb rennet paste, and the fine curd is stirred and warmed, from about 28–40 °C for Manchego to 45–48 °C for Pecorino Romano. The curd is pressed in patterned moulds, salted in brine or dry, and aged from a month to two years. Made in 6 steps over 30 days – 3.3 months. The longest step, salt, takes 3 h – 2.3 months (Consejo Regulador DOP Queso Manchego 2025). Salt is up to 2.3 % (Consejo Regulador DOP Queso Manchego 2025). Streptococcus thermophilus and Lactobacillus delbrueckii subsp. lactis and Enterococcus faecium do most of the fermenting.
| Main step | 3 h – 2.3 monthsReported[manchego-pliego][romano-onaf] | Salt |
|---|---|---|
| Temperature | 28–40 °CReported[manchego-pliego][romano-onaf] | Set the milk with rennet |
| Salt | up to 2.3 %Set[manchego-pliego] | Salt |
| Acidity | pH 4.8–5.8Set[manchego-pliego] | Age |
The milk is whole ewe milk, and Pecorino Romano is set with lamb rennet paste. Pecorino Romano is cooked hotter and salted for weeks; Manchego is set cooler and brined for hours.
Made the same way, each with what its own sources record.
Cheese from Czech Republic, Karlovy Vary
A firm sheep farm cheese of irregular round shape with a yellow to orange natural rind and a strong, acidic taste.
Sources: United States Department of Agriculture 1953; Martín-del-Campo S.T.
Cheese from England, West Midlands, Ram Hall farm at Berkswell
Berkswell is moulded by hand in colanders, which give it its characteristic shape and patterning. It is a farmhouse cheese made from the farm's own raw ewe's milk with lamb's rennet.
Sources: The Fine Cheese Co. 2012. The Fine Cheese Co. visit Berkswell cheese-makers (blog; La Fromagerie. History; US Food and Drug Administration 2016
Cheese from Italy, Liguria
A summer pasture goat cheese of the Ligurian mountains near the sea; ONAF credits its taste to pasture plants touched by the Ligurian Sea air.
Sources: Regione Liguria; ONAF; ANSES 2022
Cheese from Ireland, south-east Cork
Imokilly Regato is made from cow milk at one creamery, Dairygold Mogeely, from milk of the south-east Cork baronies. The milk is held 12–18 hours before cheesemaking, and the cheese is salted twice, in brine and then by hand.
Sources: Department of Agriculture; Culture magazine 2015; AnyCheese
Cheese from Spain, Castile and León
Log-shaped sheep cheese with a blind, flaky paste.
Sources: Wikipedia (es)
Cheese from Portugal, Centro
The 'de azeite' type is immersed in local olive oil after salting, and the rind is washed and scraped between each salting turn.
Sources: US Food and Drug Administration 2016; US Centers for Disease Control and Prevention
Cheese from Portugal, Ribatejo Norte
Each cheese is tiny. The cardoon is dipped into the milk in a cloth bundle rather than poured in as an infusion.
Sources: US Food and Drug Administration 2016
Cheese from Portugal, Centro, the Sicó hills
The milk is a mix of ewe and goat, set with animal rennet rather than cardoon, and the cheese ripens for more than 20 days.
Sources: European Commission; Pereira C.D.; US Food and Drug Administration 2016; US Centers for Disease Control and Prevention
Cheese from Spain, Balearic Islands
Queso de Mallorca is set with a cardoon-pistil coagulant and shaped in cloth, not in a hard mould, which gives its square fogasser loaf. The Oveja Roja version uses milk from a rare local breed of fewer than a thousand head.
Sources: Slow Food Illes Balears; Wikipedia (es); ANSES 2022
Cheese from Argentina
An Argentine grating cheese modelled on Italian pecorino but defined by the food code by size and age, not by sheep milk; Sardo is the small, three-month version of Queso Romano.
Sources: Código Alimentario Argentino
Cheese from Italy, Basilicata
Basket pecorino eaten as is or warmed over the fire. ONAF notes the region sent no documentation; most traits are inferred from a similar local cheese.
Sources: ONAF (national organisation of cheese tasters); ONAF
Hard ewe cheeses are pressed and aged, and the UK NHS lists hard cheeses as safe in pregnancy, unpasteurised or not. A young raw-milk ewe cheese that is still semi-hard is not on that list, because the NHS names semi-hard cheeses as safe only when pasteurised. Manchego PDO sets a limit of 100 cfu/g for coagulase-positive staphylococci in the cheese.
Hazards the sources name: Coagulase-positive staphylococci from milk or handling; Manchego PDO allows at most 100 cfu/g; Clostridium spores, found in 97 % of raw ewe milk samples; C. sporogenes made up 78.9 % of isolates from Manchego with late blowing.
Every number is labelled with how it is known. How this atlas is made
ONAF's sheet says Roman legions took Pecorino Romano as a staple travel ration, at 27 g per man per day, and that early in the 20th century emigrants to the Americas carried it, which made generous salting usual.
