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Cheese from Italy, Calabria
Fresh raw milk of local free-ranging goats is set with the herder's own aged kid rennet, diluted in a little water, in about an hour. The curd is broken to rice-grain size, lifted by hand into rush baskets on sloping boards, pressed, dry-salted and left a day in the baskets. It is eaten fresh or ripened 8–12 months in cellars, its rind kept oiled with olive oil and a little vinegar.
| Freshly milked raw whole goat milk from local breeds | [pat-sheet][onaf-sheet] |
| Kid paste rennet made by the herders from kid stomachs and aged, dissolved in a little water | [pat-sheet][onaf-sheet] |
| Fine salt | [onaf-sheet] |
| Olive oil and a little vinegar for the rind, sometimes ground red pepper | [pat-sheet][onaf-sheet] |
| Starter | The ONAF sheet lists no additions to the milk; it is set with the herders' own kid rennet. |
Total time across the recorded steps: 8 months – 12 months
What changes: The herder's own kid rennet goes into the warm raw goat milk
Milk filtered through a steel strainer (culaturi) is warmed in a pot while stirring; no temperature is given.
Microbes at work in this step
Not documented for this step.
Measured measured in a studySet fixed by a specification or tested recipeReported one source reports itTypical a general value, not sourced for this fermentUnconfirmed not yet checked against a source
Fresh raw milk of local free-ranging goats is set with the herder's own aged kid rennet, diluted in a little water, in about an hour. The curd is broken to rice-grain size, lifted by hand into rush baskets on sloping boards, pressed, dry-salted and left a day in the baskets. It is eaten fresh or ripened 8–12 months in cellars, its rind kept oiled with olive oil and a little vinegar. Made in 5 steps over 8 months – 12 months. The longest step, ripen in cellars, oiled, takes 8–12 months (Regione Calabria). Mesophilic and thermophilic lactic acid cocci and lactobacilli, the dominant flora throughout ripening in the related Calabrian goat cheese Caprino d'Aspromonte does most of the fermenting.
| Main step | 8–12 monthsReported[pat-sheet][onaf-sheet] | Ripen in cellars, oiled |
|---|
Made only from the milk of free-ranging local goats with the herders' own kid rennet, and its rind is kept oiled with olive oil and vinegar throughout ripening.
Raw-milk cheese, eaten fresh after a few weeks or ripened 8–12 months. The regional notes list raw milk, tinned copper pots and wooden or rush tools as reasons for the hygiene derogation. ANSES advises pregnant women, young children, people over 65 and people with weak immunity not to eat raw-milk cheeses other than cooked pressed ones, because of Listeria, Salmonella and enterohaemorrhagic E. coli. Some wheels grow small worms inside while they ripen (ONAF, which does not name the insect). A case report describes myiasis, an infestation by fly larvae, with marked symptoms in a patient who swallowed larvae of the cheese fly Piophila casei (Nocera and Crotti 2009). Do not eat a wheel with live worms.
Hazards the sources name: Hygiene-indicator microbes (the study counted coliforms, E. coli and enterococci), high enough in the related Caprino d'Aspromonte, a Calabrian raw or thermised goat cheese, that several cheeses failed Italian standards; not tested in this cheese; Live larvae (small worms) in some wheels, an insect, not a microbe; a case report describes myiasis, an infestation by fly larvae, in a patient who swallowed larvae of the cheese fly Piophila casei.
Every number is labelled with how it is known. How this atlas is made
The PAT sheet says that by tradition herders still pay the rent of their pastures with a suitable amount of cheese, and calls goat cheese the oldest of cheeses. It also notes that some breeders have replaced goats with dairy cows, which pay better, so production has fallen.
