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Fish and seafood from Korea
Sikhae is lightly salted fish packed with cooked millet or rice, malt powder, chilli, garlic and radish, then left to sour. Lactic acid bacteria feed on the grain sugars, and the pH falls to about 4.5 within days to a week at about 20 °C, more slowly in the cold. The flatfish form from Hamgyeong is gajami-sikhae.
| Yellow flatfish, gutted, head removed, lightly salted and cut up | [ek-gajami][nfm-gajami-sikhae] |
| Cooked foxtail millet, made fairly firm (rice or barley outside Hamgyeong) | [ek-gajami][nfm-gajami-sikhae][nfm-sikhae] |
| Malt powder (yeotgireum), sieved | [ek-gajami][nfm-gajami-sikhae] |
| Red pepper powder, garlic and ginger | [ek-gajami][nfm-gajami-sikhae] |
| Radish, cut in thick strips and lightly salted | [ek-gajami][nfm-gajami-sikhae] |
| SaltAbout 10 % in one encyclopedia account; 4 % was best in a lab study; a review gives about 2 % | [nfm-jeotgal][han2013][narzary2021] |
| Starter | spontaneous (malt turns the grain starch to sugar, and lactic acid bacteria sour it) |
Total time across the recorded steps: 20 days – 24 days
What changes: Light salt draws water out of the cleaned fish
The flatfish is scaled, gutted and the head and tail cut off, then salted lightly. The cook adds less salt later if the fish is already salty. Output: lightly salted fish.
Microbes at work in this step
Not documented for this step.
Measured measured in a studySet fixed by a specification or tested recipeReported one source reports itTypical a general value, not sourced for this fermentUnconfirmed not yet checked against a source
Sikhae is lightly salted fish packed with cooked millet or rice, malt powder, chilli, garlic and radish, then left to sour. Lactic acid bacteria feed on the grain sugars, and the pH falls to about 4.5 within days to a week at about 20 °C, more slowly in the cold. The flatfish form from Hamgyeong is gajami-sikhae. Made in 7 steps over 20 days – 24 days. The longest step, ripen, takes 14 days (Lee C.H 1983) and runs at 10–23 °C (Han D.-W 2013). Salt is 2–10 % (An J.Y. (안정윤)). Latilactobacillus sakei and Lactiplantibacillus plantarum and Levilactobacillus brevis do most of the fermenting.
| Main step | 14 daysReported[lee1983][han2013] | Ripen |
|---|---|---|
| Temperature | 10–23 °CReported[han2013][lee1983] | Ripen |
| Salt | 2–10 %Reported[nfm-jeotgal][han2013][narzary2021] | Mix cooked millet with malt, chilli, garlic and ginger |
| Acidity | pH 6.3 → 4.5Measured[kim2022][lee1983] | Ripen |
Sikhae uses less salt than other jeotgal and adds cooked grain and malt, so it sours by lactic fermentation in days. Most jeotgal are salted at about 20–30 % of the seafood weight and ripen for months with no grain.
Made the same way, each with what its own sources record.
Fish and seafood from Korea — 1987 survey regions: Gwanbuk
Named for its grain, glutinous rice, rather than its seafood, which the survey does not identify.
Sources: Suh H.K. and Yoon S.S. 1987
Fish and seafood from Korea — 1987 survey regions: Gwanbuk
Cod instead of flatfish, recorded in the north-east.
Sources: Suh H.K. and Yoon S.S. 1987; World Health Organization
Fish and seafood from Korea — 1987 survey regions: Nambu
Marbled flounder (dodari) instead of the yellow flatfish of Hamgyeong.
Sources: Suh H.K. and Yoon S.S. 1987
Fish and seafood from Korea — 1987 survey regions: Nambu
Stone flounder instead of the yellow flatfish of Hamgyeong.
Sources: Suh H.K. and Yoon S.S. 1987
Fish and seafood from Korea — 1987 survey regions: Nambu
Hairtail instead of flatfish; the survey records it in both the south and the north-east.
Fish and seafood from Korea — 1987 survey regions: Nambu
A sea snail (godong) instead of fish; the only gastropod sikhae in the 1987 survey.
Sources: Suh H.K. and Yoon S.S. 1987
Fish and seafood from Korea — 1987 survey regions: Gwanbuk
The survey names no fish, so the entry may be a local name for ordinary sikhae rather than a separate product.
Sources: Suh H.K. and Yoon S.S. 1987
Fish and seafood from Korea — 1987 survey regions: Gwanbuk
A squid (hanchi) instead of fish.
Sources: Suh H.K. and Yoon S.S. 1987
Fish and seafood from Korea — 1987 survey regions: Nambu
A dialect-named fish (heultteogi) instead of flatfish.
Sources: Suh H.K. and Yoon S.S. 1987
Fish and seafood from Korea — 1987 survey regions: Gwanbuk
A dialect-named fish (hoettae) instead of flatfish, recorded in the north-east.
Sources: Suh H.K. and Yoon S.S. 1987
Fish and seafood from Korea — 1987 survey regions: Nambu
Gizzard shad instead of flatfish, recorded in the south.
Sources: Suh H.K. and Yoon S.S. 1987
Fish and seafood from Korea — 1987 survey regions: Nambu
Whole young jack mackerel instead of flatfish.
Sources: Suh H.K. and Yoon S.S. 1987
Fish and seafood from Korea — 1987 survey regions: Nambu
Salted hairtail instead of flatfish.
Sources: Suh H.K. and Yoon S.S. 1987
Fish and seafood from Korea — 1987 survey regions: Nambu
Filefish instead of flatfish, recorded in the south.
Sources: Suh H.K. and Yoon S.S. 1987
Fish and seafood from Korea — 1987 survey regions: Nambu
Dried squid instead of fresh fish; it parallels bugeo (dried pollock) sikhae.
Fish and seafood from Korea — 1987 survey regions: Gwanbuk
Octopus instead of fish.
Sources: Suh H.K. and Yoon S.S. 1987
Fish and seafood from Korea — 1987 survey regions: Gwanbuk
Pollock roe instead of whole fish, the only roe sikhae in the 1987 survey.
Fish and seafood from Korea — 1987 survey regions: Gwanbuk
Pollock gills instead of fish flesh; the sikhae form of seogeori-jeot.
Sources: Suh H.K. and Yoon S.S. 1987; US Food and Drug Administration
Fish and seafood from Korea — 1987 survey regions: Gwanbuk
Pollock intestines instead of fish flesh; the sikhae form of changnan-jeot.
Sources: Suh H.K. and Yoon S.S. 1987; US Food and Drug Administration
Fish and seafood from Korea — 1987 survey regions: Gwanbuk
Whole juvenile pollock (nogari) instead of cut flatfish.
Sources: Suh H.K. and Yoon S.S. 1987
Fish and seafood from Korea — 1987 survey regions: Nambu
Rockfish (ureok) instead of flatfish, as a 1987 survey records it in the south.
Sources: Suh H.K. and Yoon S.S. 1987
Sikhae uses less salt than most jeotgal, about 2–10 % across the sources on this page. We read no study that tested it for Clostridium botulinum, so the figures below do not show it is safe. In one study the pH dropped from 6.25 to 4.50 within two days at 20 °C, but was still 4.81 after two days at 15 °C and took about 15 days to reach 4.5 at 5–10 °C; another study reached 4.5 only after 7 days at room temperature. The FDA's barrier to type E botulism is pH 5 or below or 5 % salt in the water phase, and pH 4.6 or below for all types. Japan's agriculture ministry lists home-made izushi and similar fish ferments as botulism foods. CDC says the toxin cannot be seen, smelled or tasted, so a home batch cannot be judged by eye or nose. Keep it refrigerated after it sours; one study found quality held for up to 4 weeks in the refrigerator. The Korean Food Code allows sorbic acid (up to 1.0 g/kg) only in jeotgal with 8 % salt or less, and sets an E. coli limit (n=5, c=1, m=0, M=10) for jeotgal.
Every number is labelled with how it is known. How this atlas is made
Sikhae grew up on the east coast, where salt was scarce; the salt-rich west coast made jeot instead. A 13th-century medical book, Hyangyak gugeupbang, records herring sikhae, and Sangga yorok (about 1450) lists sikhae of fish, tripe, pork skin, pheasant, bellflower root and grain; its grain-porridge sikhae was used after 3–4 days in summer and about 10 days in winter. No old Korean record of gajami-sikhae itself survives. It was spread by displaced people who had fled from Hamgyeong.
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