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Cheese from Southern Italy, where the type began, and the Po plain
Milk is set with a whey starter and rennet, and the curd is left to sour for hours until a melted sample pulls into long strands. The curd is then kneaded and stretched in very hot water, shaped, firmed in cold water and brined, and eaten fresh or aged.
| Milk | Mozzarella di Bufala Campana PDO: buffalo milk with at least 7.2 % fat and 4.2 % protein; cow milk for Provolone Valpadana[bufala-onaf][provolone-onaf] |
| Natural whey starter | Whey soured from earlier makes, in the same dairy or nearby dairies for Mozzarella di Bufala Campana[bufala-onaf][provolone-onaf] |
| Calf rennet18–20 ml per hl milk | Mozzarella di Bufala Campana dose, strength 1:10,000; Provolone piccante uses kid or lamb rennet paste[bufala-onaf][provolone-onaf] |
| Hot water | For stretching the soured curd[bufala-onaf][provolone-onaf] |
| Salt | As brine[bufala-onaf] |
| Starter | natural whey starter of thermophilic lactic bacteria, or defined thermophilic cultures; some industrial makes acidify with citric acid instead |
Total time across the recorded steps: 10 days – 35 days
What changes: Whey starter and rennet go into warm milk and it sets
Output: curd.
Microbes at work in this step
the whey starter brings heat-loving lactic bacteria
Measured measured in a studySet fixed by a specification or tested recipeReported one source reports itTypical a general value, not sourced for this fermentUnconfirmed not yet checked against a source
Milk is set with a whey starter and rennet, and the curd is left to sour for hours until a melted sample pulls into long strands. The curd is then kneaded and stretched in very hot water, shaped, firmed in cold water and brined, and eaten fresh or aged. Made in 6 steps over 10 days – 35 days. The longest step, firm in cold water and brine, takes 25 min – 25 days (Levante A 2023) and runs at 16.5–19.5 °C (Levante A 2023). Salt is 4–18 % (ONAF (Organizzazione Nazionale Assaggiatori F…). Streptococcus thermophilus and Lactobacillus delbrueckii do most of the fermenting.
| Main step | 25 min – 25 daysReported[levante2023][provolone-onaf] | Firm in cold water and brine |
|---|---|---|
| Temperature | 16.5–19.5 °CReported[levante2023] | Firm in cold water and brine |
| Salt | 4–18 %Reported[bufala-onaf][levante2023] | Firm in cold water and brine |
| Acidity | pH 5.2–5.6Measured[bittante2022] | Dry and age (provolone) |
The soured curd is melted and stretched in very hot water, which lines the proteins up into fibres. Other rennet cheeses are pressed or moulded without this hot kneading step.
Made the same way, each with what its own sources record.
Cheese from Italy, Campania
A young, mild cousin of caciocavallo from the Sorrento peninsula, matured within days instead of aged. It is named for its swaddled-baby shape.
Sources: Regione Campania; ONAF (national organisation of cheese tasters)
Cheese from Italy, Campania
The filling is butter, not cream and shredded curd as in burrata from Apulia, and the butter is churned from whey cream, not from milk cream. It began as a way to keep butter fresh before refrigerators.
Sources: Regione Campania; ONAF (national organisation of cheese tasters); ONAF
Cheese from Türkiye
A Turkish stretched-curd cheese made from cow milk.
Cheese from Poland, Podhale and the Silesian Beskids
Gołka is the cow-milk counterpart of oscypek, made from cow milk only, smoked in the home smokehouse rather than the shepherd's hut, and in the past made in autumn and winter when the sheep were dry. In a Podhale study the cow-milk cheeses were shorter, lighter and moister than oscypek, and tourists often call gołka oscypek.
Sources: Ministry of Agriculture and Rural Development (MRiRW); MRiRW; Surówka K.; Ceklarz K. 2023
Cheese from Syria
A pasta filata cheese twisted or braided into a rope and seasoned with mahleb and nigella.
Sources: Wikipedia; Jewish Food Society
Cheese from Venezuela
Venezuelan braided pasta filata, precooked like queso de mano and guayanés.
Sources: Food & Agribusiness World
Cheese from Puerto Rico
The curd is scalded in blocks rather than stretched into a rope, then flattened, salted and folded so that it keeps visible layers. The "leaf" in the name refers to these layers.
Sources: Sanders G.P. 1953; Dairy Management Inc. 2008
Cheese from Colombia, Boyacá
Queso pera is a fresh, unripened pasta filata shaped like a pear. It is said to descend from caciocavallo made by the Italian Del Vecchio brothers, who arrived in Colombia in 1923.
Sources: CONtexto Ganadero 2022
Cheese from Italy, Campania
Made like caciocavallo but tiny, with a filling of black olives and chilli that spreads heat into the paste, and smoked.
Sources: Regione Campania; ONAF (Organizzazione Nazionale Assaggiatori Formaggi); ONAF; US Centers for Disease Control and Prevention
Cheese from Italy, Campania
A buffalo-milk scamorza from the mozzarella area. Its curd sours a full day under whey before stretching, and it is sold plain or briefly smoked over straw.
Sources: Regione Campania; ONAF (national organisation of cheese tasters); NHS (UK)
Cheese from Italy, Campania
A little-known soft pasta filata of the Benevento area, shaped by hand into a long loaf (pagnotta) rather than a ball or pear.
Sources: Regione Campania; ONAF (Organizzazione Nazionale Assaggiatori Formaggi); ONAF; NHS (UK)
Cheese from Turkey, Kars and Ardahan
A thread cheese of the Turkmen villages of Kars and Ardahan; a thesis on 30 market samples found them unstandardised, low in fat and high in salt in dry matter.
Sources: YÖK National Thesis Centre (Açık Bilim); SERKA (Serhat Development Agency)
Stretching heats the curd to 50–65 °C, but it does not always destroy pathogens, so a review recommends pasteurised milk for mozzarella eaten fresh. Mozzarella di Bufala Campana is a moist cheese, with at most 65 % moisture. The UK NHS lists pasteurised mozzarella as safe in pregnancy and advises eating unpasteurised soft cheeses only when cooked until steaming hot, because of Listeria.
Every number is labelled with how it is known. How this atlas is made
The ONAF sheet for Mozzarella di Bufala Campana says the word "mozzarella" first appears in a text by Bartolomeo Scappi, cook to the papal court, in 1570.
