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Cheese from Italy, Calabria
A pear of stretched cow-milk curd wrapped around a core of butter, made in Calabria as a way to keep butter. Raw milk is set with calf or kid rennet at 36–38 °C, the curd sours for 4–10 hours, and it is stretched in hot water and closed around a chilled ball of washed butter under a three-pointed knot. It ripens about 7 days in a cool room.
| Raw whole cow milk | Podolica or Podolica crosses, now also dairy breeds[lr-calabria] |
| Calf or kid rennet | [onaf-sheet] |
| Butter | Can be made from the whey of other pasta filata cheeses; washed several times to remove acidity[lr-calabria][onaf-sheet] |
| Hot water | For stretching the curd[onaf-sheet] |
| Starter | natural microflora |
Total time across the recorded steps: 7.7 days – 2 months
What changes: Calf or kid rennet sets the raw milk into a curd at 36–38 °C
Microbes at work in this step
Not documented for this step.
Measured measured in a studySet fixed by a specification or tested recipeReported one source reports itTypical a general value, not sourced for this fermentUnconfirmed not yet checked against a source
A pear of stretched cow-milk curd wrapped around a core of butter, made in Calabria as a way to keep butter. Raw milk is set with calf or kid rennet at 36–38 °C, the curd sours for 4–10 hours, and it is stretched in hot water and closed around a chilled ball of washed butter under a three-pointed knot. It ripens about 7 days in a cool room. Made in 6 steps over 7.7 days – 2 months. The longest step, ripen in a cool room, takes 7 days – 2 months (Regione Calabria 2004).
| Main step | 7 days – 2 monthsReported[lr-calabria][onaf-sheet] | Ripen in a cool room |
|---|---|---|
| Temperature | 36–38 °CReported[onaf-sheet] | Set with rennet |
The stretched curd is only a casing. Inside is a ball of washed butter, which the casing helped keep and carry for a long time; the name comes from the dialect word for butter.
It is made from raw milk and eaten after about a week. The Calabria PAT notes name total bacterial count, somatic cells and Staphylococcus aureus as the raw-milk risks, controlled by checking the milk or by thermising or pasteurising it. ANSES advises pregnant women, young children, people over 65 and people with weak immunity not to eat raw-milk cheeses other than hard cooked ones, because of Listeria, Salmonella and enterohaemorrhagic E. coli.
Hazards the sources name: Staphylococcus aureus, named in the Calabria PAT safety notes as a risk of raw milk.
Every number is labelled with how it is known. How this atlas is made
Calabria's 2004 law on historic dairy products says the butirro was born of the old herders' need to keep and carry butter for a long time, using the provola casing. Place names such as Sila, Pollino or Sibari may follow the name. The Slow Food Ark of Taste describes a similar double-structure cheese as manteca, also called burrino or butirro, tied to Podolica caciocavallo making from March to August; it gives the butter as made from the previous day's ricotta.
