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Cheese from Italy, Campania, province of Salerno, the Tanagro valley, Monte Cervati and the Alburni mountains
Caciocavallo di grotta del Cervati e delle Gole di Pertosa
This caciocavallo from Monte Cervati and the Alburni mountains is made from raw milk of Brown or Podolica cows and aged in limestone caves, where grey mould covers the rind. The curd is half-cooked at 45–47 °C, left on wooden boards overnight to sour, then stretched in boiling water. The cheeses weigh at least 2.5 kg and ripen hung in pairs for four months to two years.
Total time across the recorded steps: 4 months – 2 years
Start
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What changes:Kid rennet paste goes into the mixed milkings, warmed over the fire
Step 1 of 7
Warm the mixed milkings and add rennet
Time
25–30 min
Reported
Temperature
36–38 °C
Reported
Salt
None given
Acidity
Not documented
The evening milk was once carried straight into the cave, where it stayed cool, and joined with the morning milk.
Flavour
Not documented
Texture
Not documented
Colour
Not documented
Microbes at work in this step
Not documented for this step.
Method
Measured measured in a studySet fixed by a specification or tested recipeReported one source reports itTypical a general value, not sourced for this fermentUnconfirmed not yet checked against a source
At a glance
This caciocavallo from Monte Cervati and the Alburni mountains is made from raw milk of Brown or Podolica cows and aged in limestone caves, where grey mould covers the rind. The curd is half-cooked at 45–47 °C, left on wooden boards overnight to sour, then stretched in boiling water. The cheeses weigh at least 2.5 kg and ripen hung in pairs for four months to two years. Made in 7 steps over 4 months – 2 years. The longest step, hang in pairs in the cave, takes 4 months – 2 years (ONAF (Organizzazione Nazionale Assaggiatori F…).
The whole make once took place in caves while the herds grazed the summer pastures of Monte Cervati. Today the deep karst caves are used for ageing, and their moulds turn the rind grey.
Rind
Mouldy; pale straw to grey depending on surface mould
Size
2.5 kg or more; spheroid or oval, optional head
Season
Made all year; spring and early-summer milk from cows at pasture is prized
The regional notes name raw milk, tinned vats and wooden tools as the risks, with Staphylococcus aureus, high bacterial counts and somatic cells as the problems of raw milk. They are handled by testing the milk, good hygiene and discarding faulty cheeses. ANSES advises pregnant women, young children, people over 65 and people with weak immunity not to eat raw-milk cheeses other than pressed cooked cheeses such as Gruyère or Comté, because of Listeria, Salmonella and enterohaemorrhagic E. coli.
Hazards the sources name: Staphylococcus aureus, named with high total counts and somatic cells as the risk of using raw milk.
The regional sheet says archaeological finds of dairy tools in the Pertosa caves show dairy activity there since the Bronze Age, and that the method was used by all the massari of the Cervati area. Some modern dairies still age the whole make in limestone caves.
Starter
The sources we found do not say how its fermentation begins.