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Alcoholic drinks from West Bengal, India
Cholai is a cheap country spirit of Bengal, usually distilled from a fermented mash of rice (and in some accounts jaggery). An Indian encyclopedia describes a still of two joined earthen pots, with the vapour cooling in the empty upper pot and running out through a tube. A 1906 study of the same kind of rice spirit in Odisha records each stage (mould-grown rice cakes, 5 to 10 days in earthen vats, distillation in joined earthen jars), about three weeks in all.
| Bakhar starter, powderedAbout 1 part per 100 parts of dry rice | A black, mouldy mix of powdered rice and the barks and roots of various plants, sold as walnut-sized balls[ray1906] |
| Husked, sun-dried rice, steamedHalf for cakes, half added fresh | [ray1906] |
| Water20 gallons per maund (82 lb) of rice, caked and fresh together | About 2.5 parts of water to one of rice, poured over the mould cakes in the vats; the fresh rice goes in the next day[ray1906] |
| Starter | In the 1906 Odisha rice spirit: bakhar, a mould starter of rice, bark and roots. For Bengali cholai, one account has yeast mixed with the rice or jaggery. |
Total time across the recorded steps: 13 days – 20 days
What changes: Washed rice is steamed soft over boiling water
Microbes at work in this step
Not documented for this step.
Measured measured in a studySet fixed by a specification or tested recipeReported one source reports itTypical a general value, not sourced for this fermentUnconfirmed not yet checked against a source
Cholai is a cheap country spirit of Bengal, usually distilled from a fermented mash of rice (and in some accounts jaggery). An Indian encyclopedia describes a still of two joined earthen pots, with the vapour cooling in the empty upper pot and running out through a tube. A 1906 study of the same kind of rice spirit in Odisha records each stage (mould-grown rice cakes, 5 to 10 days in earthen vats, distillation in joined earthen jars), about three weeks in all. Made in 5 steps over 13 days – 20 days. The longest step, ferment the cakes with water and fresh rice in earthen vats, takes 5–10 days (Ray J.C. 1906). A Mucor species (Ray queries Mucor racemosus), grown on the rice cakes from the bakhar and Bacteria, always found with the Mucor in bakhar, cakes and wort do most of the fermenting.
| Main step | 5–10 daysReported[ray1906] | Ferment the cakes with water and fresh rice in earthen vats |
|---|---|---|
| Temperature | 29 °C → 34 °CMeasured[ray1906] | Mix with bakhar and keep in a basket |
Cholai is distilled, unlike the rice beers such as handia drunk across the same region. Its starter, bakhar, is grown into thick mould cakes before the mash ferments, and in 1906 no yeast was added at any stage.
Wikipedia says cholai is sometimes mixed with industrial alcohol or methanol, which has caused several hundred deaths, and that cholai adulterated with industrial alcohol killed over 140 people in 2011. Ray lists narcotic plants (datura, nux vomica, hemp) among the ingredients of bakhar and says they were meant for pachwai, the undistilled rice beer; the Government chemical examiner found no trace of them in the distilled spirit. That 1906 result says nothing about any other batch. All parts of datura are toxic (Cinelli 2021), and nux vomica seeds carry strychnine, which has caused serious poisoning (a 2020 case series). Never add either to a starter.
Hazards the sources name: Datura and nux vomica, poisonous plants Ray lists among the ingredients of bakhar (plant toxins, not microbes).
Every number is labelled with how it is known. How this atlas is made
Ray's 1906 paper in the Journal of the Asiatic Society of Bengal said that in Orissa the bulk of the spirit drunk by the poor is made from rice, and traced the bakhar starter to kinva, named by Manu. A footnote says the Cuttack Central Distillery had stopped making rice spirit the year before.
