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Alcoholic drinks from West Bengal

Handia (haria, hadiya)हड़िया

Handia is a mild rice beer of the tribal communities of eastern India. Boiled rice is dried on a mat, mixed with a herbal starter tablet (ranu or bakhar) and left untouched in a large earthen pot for 3 to 4 days, and the liquid is then sieved off. Lactic acid bacteria and yeasts dominate it, and the drink is low in alcohol, about 0.8–1.4 % in samples sold in Baripada, Odisha.

Fully documentedAlcoholic drinks10 days – 13 days

Recipe

Handia (haria, hadiya), a photo from Wikimedia Commons
Photo: Swetapadma07, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Amounts from a sourceHousehold proportions with no fixed batch size. The amounts are per 1 kg of rice, as recorded among the tribal makers of Baripada, Mayurbhanj, Odisha (Panda et al. 2014).
Rice1 kgMechanically de-husked, soaked and boiled in water, then dried on a bamboo mat. In West Bengal the rice is parboiled[panda2014][ghosh2021]
Ranu (bakhar) tablets, powdered8–10 tablets per kg of riceHalf plant parts and half rice powder; the roots, bark, flowers, fruit, shoots and leaves of about 20 plant species were recorded in Mayurbhanj. A West Bengal tablet is a ball of about 10 g dry weight made without any old ferment[panda2014][ghosh2021]
WaterAs requiredAdded to the rice and starter in the earthen pot; about 10 L of handia come from 1 kg of rice and 8–10 tablets[panda2014]
Starterranu (bakhar) tablets of plant parts and rice powder

Total time across the recorded steps: 10 days – 13 days

Start
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What changes: Plant powder and rice flour are shaped into tablets and left on straw to turn into starter

Step 1 of 7
Make and dry the ranu tablets
Time
5 days
Reported
Temperature
Not documented
Salt
None given
Acidity
Not documented
Which microbes the steps name, step by step
Moulds
Yeasts
Lactic acid bacteria

Powdered roots, bark and other plant parts are mixed with rice powder and water to a dough, rounded into tablets and spread over beds of straw with a final thin layer of straw on top. Output: dry ranu (bakhar) tablets.

Flavour
Not documented
Texture
Not documented
Colour
Not documented

Microbes at work in this step

Not documented for this step.

Method

Measured measured in a studySet fixed by a specification or tested recipeReported one source reports itTypical a general value, not sourced for this fermentUnconfirmed not yet checked against a source

At a glance

Handia is a mild rice beer of the tribal communities of eastern India. Boiled rice is dried on a mat, mixed with a herbal starter tablet (ranu or bakhar) and left untouched in a large earthen pot for 3 to 4 days, and the liquid is then sieved off. Lactic acid bacteria and yeasts dominate it, and the drink is low in alcohol, about 0.8–1.4 % in samples sold in Baripada, Odisha. Made in 7 steps over 10 days – 13 days. The longest step, make and dry the ranu tablets, takes 5 days (Panda S.K 2014). Moulds and yeasts, most numerous on day 2 of fermentation and Lactic acid bacteria and Bifidobacterium, rising through fermentation do most of the fermenting.

Key numbers
Main step5 daysReported[panda2014]Make and dry the ranu tablets
AciditypH 4.3–4.7Measured[panda2014]Trickle through a bamboo sieve

What makes this one different

Ranu tablets are half plant parts and half rice powder, and the plants differ by place and season. The pot is left untouched until the liquid is sieved off, and the makers say the drink loses quality if it is diluted.

Related ferments

Variants

  • Haria (West Bengal)Parboiled rice is mixed with a bakhar tablet and kept in a heat-sterilised earthen pot for 3 to 5 days; the filtrate is cream-coloured and like buttermilk.
  • PachwaiName used in a 1942 review for the same rice or millet brew in Bengal, Bihar and Orissa; in Darjeeling it was made mostly from millet.
  • Handia of OdishaRecorded in 1942 under the names henda, paindan and sooram, brewed with a starter called bakkar rami.

Safety

In the Baripada samples no pathogenic bacteria were found on selective media, and the pH was 4.28–4.67 with a low alcohol content (Panda et al.). Lactic acid bacteria make acid, which creates conditions unfavourable for pathogens (Ghosh et al. 2021).

History and sources

Every number is labelled with how it is known. How this atlas is made

In 1942 Chopra and colleagues wrote that pachwai, handia or mama, a fermented liquor brewed from rice or millet, was drunk chiefly by the aboriginal tribes of Bengal as a stimulant and as a food. Home brewing was permitted only for private use, in a few districts, at the Bandhana and Paush Sankranti festivals. In Bihar it was the universal drink of aboriginal tribes such as the Santals and Bhils of the Chota Nagpur hills. The review adds that Santals, especially the women, object to pachwai bought from a shop.

  1. [panda2014] Panda S.K., Bastia A.K., Sahoo G. 2014, Process characteristics and nutritional evaluation of handia, a cereal based ethnic fermented food from Odisha, Indian Journal of Traditional Knowledge 13(1):149–156paper
  2. [ghosh2015] Ghosh K. et al. 2015, Microbial, saccharifying and antioxidant properties of an Indian rice based fermented beverage, Food Chemistry 168:196–202, doi:10.1016/j.foodchem.2014.07.042 (abstract)paper
  3. [ghosh2021] Ghosh K., Adak A., Halder S.K., Mondal K.C. 2021, Physicochemical characteristics and lactic acid bacterial diversity of an ethnic rice fermented mild alcoholic beverage, haria, Frontiers in Sustainable Food Systems 5:680738, doi:10.3389/fsufs.2021.680738paper
  4. [sethi2025] Sethi M. et al. 2025, Whole genome mining and characterization of a new probiotic strain Levilactobacillus brevis ILSH3 from Handia, Probiotics and Antimicrobial Proteins 17(3):1596–1614, doi:10.1007/s12602-024-10217-3 (abstract)paper
  5. [chopra1942] Chopra R.N., Chopra G.S., Chopra I.C. 1942, Alcoholic beverages in India, Part II, Indian Medical Gazette 77(5):290–296paper
  6. [wp-handia] Wikipedia, Handia (drink) (outline only)wiki