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Alcoholic drinks from Sierra Tarahumara
Maize kernels are soaked, sprouted in the dark, ground and boiled for many hours until the mash turns yellow. The liquid is poured into a clay pot kept only for tesgüino, plant "catalysts" such as bark, leaves or lichen are added, and it ferments for 2 to 3 days into a sour, slurry-like maize beer drunk at communal tesgüinadas.
| Dry maize kernelsAbout 10 kg | [fao1999] |
| Water | To soak the kernels and to boil the ground sprouts[fao1999] |
| Plant catalysts | Near Urique, chopped bark of batari or kakwara (Randia echinocarpa, R. watsonii, R. laevigata) and kaya (Coutarea pterosperma), boiled for hours first; higher up in the pine forest, leaves of Stevia serrata and Chimaphila maculata, grass stems and roots. FAO also lists Datura leaves; they are left out here because Datura is poisonous[fao1999] |
| Usnea lichen | Added as a catalyst[ojeda2021] |
| Starter | spontaneous, carried over in the clay pot (tesgüinera) and on the utensils |
Total time across the recorded steps: 7.3 days – 8.5 days
What changes: Dry maize kernels soak up water
Soaked for several days, then drained. Output: swollen kernels.
Microbes at work in this step
Not documented for this step.
Measured measured in a studySet fixed by a specification or tested recipeReported one source reports itTypical a general value, not sourced for this fermentUnconfirmed not yet checked against a source
Maize kernels are soaked, sprouted in the dark, ground and boiled for many hours until the mash turns yellow. The liquid is poured into a clay pot kept only for tesgüino, plant "catalysts" such as bark, leaves or lichen are added, and it ferments for 2 to 3 days into a sour, slurry-like maize beer drunk at communal tesgüinadas. Made in 7 steps over 7.3 days – 8.5 days. The longest step, sprout in the dark, takes 5 days (Ojeda-Linares C. et al. 2021) and runs at 17.8–22.2 °C (Lappe Oliver P.E. 1988). Saccharomyces cerevisiae, found in tesgüino from many places and Lactic acid bacteria (Lactobacillus, Leuconostoc, Pediococcus, Streptococcus), present from the cooled gruel onward and rising through fermentation do most of the fermenting.
| Main step | 5 daysReported[ojeda2021] | Sprout in the dark |
|---|---|---|
| Temperature | 17.8–22.2 °CMeasured[lappe1988] | Sprout in the dark |
| Acidity | pH 5 → 3Measured[lappe1988] | Ferment |
Unlike tejuino, a maize-dough drink sweetened with brown sugar, tesgüino is a beer of sprouted maize, fermented with plant catalysts. Its yeasts live in the clay pot itself, so the pot is never used for anything else, and its broken pieces go into the next one.
In one documented batch the pH fell to 3.0 by 36 h of fermentation. Lappe (1988) credits the lactic acid with holding back unwanted microbes, mainly pathogenic bacteria. If the gruel is poured into the pot while warm, the yeasts in the pot sediment are lost and the batch turns into a lactic-only sour drink, not tesgüino. Maize in this study carried Fusarium moniliforme var. subglutinans, which can make mycotoxins, but the isolate was not tested for them. FAO's account lists Datura (Datura meteloides) among the catalyst leaves used in the pine forest. We leave it out of the recipe because it is poisonous. Datura plants hold atropine and scopolamine, and eating them has caused hallucinations and coma, and some patients needed mechanical ventilation [papoutsis2010, tranca2017]. Never add it. We found no study that tests the other catalyst plants as food, so this page is not a guide to which wild plants are safe to add.
Hazards the sources name: Fusarium moniliforme var. subglutinans, a mould that can make the toxins zearalenone and moniliformin, found on 86 % of the maize grain surfaces and in 64 % of the grain interiors sampled; whether this isolate makes toxin was not tested; Atropine and scopolamine in Datura, one of the catalyst plants FAO lists; never add it.
Every number is labelled with how it is known. How this atlas is made
The name tesgüino, like tejuino, comes from the Nahuatl tecuin, meaning heartbeat. Among the Rarámuri, the tesgüinada is one of the most important events of life, and players take tesgüino to the ball games and drink it for strength.
