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Cereals and bread from USA

San Francisco sourdough French bread

San Francisco sourdough is a sour French-style white bread leavened by a sour dough sponge, not by baker's yeast. Its souring bacterium, now called Fructilactobacillus sanfranciscensis, was isolated, apparently for the first time, from the San Francisco bakeries' process in 1971, and the yeast that leavens the dough could not use maltose.

Fully documentedCereals and bread8 h

Recipe

No fixed amounts recordedThe papers read give no bakery amounts. The baking page lists a formula that its author builds from the 1970 Baker's Digest articles; it is not reproduced here, and the articles are not online.
Sour dough spongeThe culture of the bakery's sour dough fermentation[kline1971][sugihara1971]
Wheat flour[avery-sdh]
Water[avery-sdh]
Salt[avery-sdh]
Starterbackslop (a sour dough sponge kept going, from a process the 1971 papers call 100 years old)

Total time across the recorded steps: 8 h

Start
Drag the bar or press Play
shapes, not to countYeasts24–27 °CStarchSugarAlcoholCO₂

What changes: The sponge holds a maltose-eating bacterium and a yeast that leaves maltose alone

Step 1 of 4
Keep the sour dough sponge going
Time
8 h
Reported
Temperature
24–27 °C
Reported
Salt
None given
Acidity
Not documented
Which microbes the steps name, step by step
Yeasts

Output: ripe, sour sponge.

Flavour
Not documented
Texture
Not documented
Colour
Not documented

Microbes at work in this step

the bacterium needs maltose at a high level; the yeast cannot use maltose and grows on other sugars

Method

Measured measured in a studySet fixed by a specification or tested recipeReported one source reports itTypical a general value, not sourced for this fermentUnconfirmed not yet checked against a source

At a glance

San Francisco sourdough is a sour French-style white bread leavened by a sour dough sponge, not by baker's yeast. Its souring bacterium, now called Fructilactobacillus sanfranciscensis, was isolated, apparently for the first time, from the San Francisco bakeries' process in 1971, and the yeast that leavens the dough could not use maltose. Made in 4 steps over 8 h. The longest step, keep the sour dough sponge going, takes 8 h (Avery M 1970) and runs at 24–27 °C (Avery M 1970). Fructilactobacillus sanfranciscensis, a lactic acid bacterium that needs maltose; acetic acid is 3–26 % of its acids in culture and 20–35 % in sourdough and A maltose-negative yeast, then named Saccharomyces exiguus (Torulopsis holmii); all isolates from four of five bakeries and 70 % from the fifth do most of the fermenting.

Key numbers
Main step8 hReported[avery-sdh]Keep the sour dough sponge going
Temperature24–27 °CReported[avery-sdh]Keep the sour dough sponge going

What makes this one different

The sour dough holds a bacterium that needs maltose and a yeast that cannot use it. In the 1971 studies, 200 yeast isolates from five bakeries were mostly maltose-negative and no baker's yeast types were found.

Salt and temperature limits in growth models
Not measured in San Francisco dough. In broth models with strains from a German commercial sourdough sponge (Gänzle et al. 1998), 4 % NaCl completely stopped L. sanfranciscensis, while Candida milleri tolerated up to 8 % and grew best at 27 °C, cooler than the bacterium.
Acetic acid
20–35 % of the total acid in sourdough; 5 % or less without air and 23–39 % with air in broth culture

Related ferments

Safety

A mature type I sourdough in general reaches about pH 4.0 (2025 review, not measured in San Francisco sourdough). The bakery account on this page keeps the starter at 24–27 °C and feeds it every 8 hours. In other type I sourdoughs, refrigeration at 4 °C stretches the time between feeds but does not protect against mould contamination (same review).

History and sources

Every number is labelled with how it is known. How this atlas is made

In 1971 scientists at the USDA Western Regional Research Laboratory (Albany, California) and UC Davis isolated the souring bacteria of what they called the 100-year-old San Francisco sour dough French bread process. The same year they reported 200 yeast isolates from five bakeries, and Ng (1972) studied how aeration changed the acetic acid share of the bacterium's acids.

  1. [kline1971] Kline L., Sugihara T.F. 1971, Microorganisms of the San Francisco sour dough bread process. II. Isolation and characterization of undescribed bacterial species responsible for the souring activity, Applied Microbiology 21:459–465, doi:10.1128/am.21.3.459-465.1971 (abstract)paper
  2. [sugihara1971] Sugihara T.F., Kline L., Miller M.W. 1971, Microorganisms of the San Francisco sour dough bread process. I. Yeasts responsible for the leavening action, Applied Microbiology 21:456–458, doi:10.1128/am.21.3.456-458.1971 (abstract)paper
  3. [ng1972] Ng H. 1972, Factors affecting organic acid production by sourdough (San Francisco) bacteria, Applied Microbiology 23:1153–1159 (abstract)paper
  4. [ganzle1998] Gänzle M.G., Ehmann M., Hammes W.P. 1998, Modeling of growth of Lactobacillus sanfranciscensis and Candida milleri in response to process parameters of sourdough fermentation, Applied and Environmental Microbiology 64:2616–2623, doi:10.1128/aem.64.7.2616-2623.1998paper
  5. [avery-sdh] Avery M., Dr. Sugihara's San Francisco Sourdough Bread, sourdoughhome.com (baking page that says it follows Kline L., Sugihara T.F., McCready L.B. 1970, Nature of the San Francisco Sour Dough French Bread Process, Baker's Digest, April 1970; read 2026-10-31)web
  6. [coronas2025] Coronas R. et al. 2025, Type I sourdough preservation strategies and the contribution of microbial biological resource centers to biodiversity protection, a narrative review, Foods 14:2624, doi:10.3390/foods14152624paper