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Cereals and bread from Northern China
Mantou are plain wheat buns that are steamed, not baked. In the old-dough method a piece of sour dough from the last batch, laomian, leavens the new dough. The sourness is then cancelled by kneading in an alkali, now sodium carbonate, before the buns are shaped, proofed and steamed white and smooth.
| Wheat flour185 g | [tang2023] |
| Water100 g | At 30 °C[tang2023] |
| Traditional starter15 g | One of eight Chinese traditional starters from northern cities in the study[tang2023] |
| Alkali (food-grade sodium carbonate)0.45 g | Dissolved with the starter in the water in this method[tang2023] |
| Starter | backslop (laomian, a piece of the last sour dough) |
Total time across the recorded steps: 8.4 h
What changes: A piece of sour, well-risen dough is kept back from the last batch
Laomian is the part of a well-soured, well-risen dough kept back for the next batch. In one study, laomian frozen at −20 °C for six months fermented less well than frozen jiaozi, and steamed bread made from it had the smallest specific volume of the four starters (1.66, against 2.38 for unfrozen jiaozi). Output: laomian, the starter for the next batch.
Microbes at work in this step
yeasts and lactic bacteria dominate the old dough
Measured measured in a studySet fixed by a specification or tested recipeReported one source reports itTypical a general value, not sourced for this fermentUnconfirmed not yet checked against a source
Mantou are plain wheat buns that are steamed, not baked. In the old-dough method a piece of sour dough from the last batch, laomian, leavens the new dough. The sourness is then cancelled by kneading in an alkali, now sodium carbonate, before the buns are shaped, proofed and steamed white and smooth. Made in 5 steps over 8.4 h. The longest step, mix new dough with laomian and let it rise, takes 8 h (Li H 2024) and runs at 30 °C (Li H 2024). Fructilactobacillus sanfranciscensis, dominant in type I steamed-bread sourdoughs and Saccharomyces cerevisiae and Candida humilis do most of the fermenting.
| Main step | 8 hReported[li2024] | Mix new dough with laomian and let it rise |
|---|---|---|
| Temperature | 30 °CReported[li2024] | Mix new dough with laomian and let it rise |
| Acidity | pH 4.5–6.2Measured[tang2023] | Knead in alkali to cancel the sourness |
Sourdough bread is baked and stays sour. Mantou dough is soured by the same kind of starter but then neutralised with alkali, and the buns are steamed, so they stay white and mild.
Use only food-grade sodium carbonate, in small amounts. The tested dose was 0.45 g per 185 g of flour.
Every number is labelled with how it is known. How this atlas is made
Wikipedia says mantou may have originated in the Qin state under King Zhaoxiang (307–250 BCE), that steamed cakes were written about by Shu Xi around 300 CE, who first called them mantou, and that the word meant filled and unfilled buns until the Song dynasty (960–1279), when baozi came to mean the filled ones. Mantou are the staple of the wheat-growing north.
