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Soy and legumes from Japan — Aichi

Mame miso / Hatchō miso (soybean-only koji miso)豆味噌

Mame miso is made from soybeans and salt only. Steamed soybeans are shaped into balls and grown with koji mould, then crushed and packed with salt and water into tall vats under stacked stones. Hatchō miso must age at least a year, and the old Okazaki makers age theirs two years or more.

Fully documentedSoy and legumes10 monthsGI No. 49 (Hatchō miso), Japan

Recipe

No fixed amounts recordedThe GI allows only soybeans and salt, with water at packing. The sources give no fixed amounts.
SoybeansAll of the soybeans become koji; no rice or barley[GI-49]
Salt[GI-49]
Water[GI-49]
Seed koji mixed with kōsen (roasted barley flour)The flour spreads the spores, soaks up condensation, keeps the balls from sticking and feeds the mould[KOIDE-2019]
Starterkoji grown on the soybean balls (miso-dama)

Total time across the recorded steps: 10 months

Start
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What changes: Soaked soybeans are steamed soft and dark

Step 1 of 5
Soak and steam the soybeans
Time
Not documented
Temperature
Not documented
Salt
None given
Acidity
Not documented
Which microbes the steps name, step by step
Moulds

The steaming is deep, so the beans are already dark before they become koji. Output: steamed soybeans.

Flavour
Not documented
Texture
Not documented
Colour
Not documented

Microbes at work in this step

Not documented for this step.

Method

Measured measured in a studySet fixed by a specification or tested recipeReported one source reports itTypical a general value, not sourced for this fermentUnconfirmed not yet checked against a source

At a glance

Mame miso is made from soybeans and salt only. Steamed soybeans are shaped into balls and grown with koji mould, then crushed and packed with salt and water into tall vats under stacked stones. Hatchō miso must age at least a year, and the old Okazaki makers age theirs two years or more. Made in 5 steps over 10 months. The longest step, age, takes at least 10 months (MAFF Geographical Indication register No. 49…). Salt is 10–13.6 % (Itō M). Koji mould grown on the soybean balls (the sources do not name the species); its enzymes do most of the work does most of the fermenting.

Key numbers
Main stepat least 10 monthsSet[GI-49][KOIDE-2019]Age
Temperature60 °CReported[KOIDE-2019]Shape miso-dama balls
Salt10–13.6 %Reported[AICHI-ITC][KOIDE-2019]Crush the balls and pack with salt and water under stones
AciditypH 4.5–5.1Set[GI-49]Age

What makes this one different

No rice or barley: the soybeans carry the koji mould themselves, shaped into balls. With little starch or sugar there is little yeast or lactic fermentation, so mame miso relies on koji enzymes, ages a year or more under heavy stones and ends very dark (Y 3 % or less) and rich in free glutamate.

Related ferments

Made the mame miso / hatchō miso way

Safety

The GI ties the ball method to safe koji making in a hot, humid climate. It says the low moisture, the air pressed out under the stones and an even spread of salt leave little room for contaminating microbes to grow [GI-49].

History and sources

Every number is labelled with how it is known. How this atlas is made

The ball-koji method took hold around the Tenpō to Kaei eras (1830–1844 in the GI). Hatchō miso shipments were 728.7 t in 2012, 613.9 t in 2013 and 646.3 t in 2014 [GI-49]. The GI says Hatchō miso was prized in Edo, which received it by ship, and that production stopped only from 1940 to 1950 because of the war [GI-49].

  1. [GI-49] MAFF Geographical Indication register No. 49, 八丁味噌 (Hatchō miso) specification, applicant Aichi miso, tamari and soy sauce cooperative, updated 2025-01-24spec
  2. [KOIDE-2019] Koide A., Matsumoto K. 2019, 種類と製造方法の違いによる味噌の調理学的特徴 (cooking properties of miso by type and method), Bulletin of Nagoya Women's University 65:61–71paper
  3. [AICHI-ITC] Itō M., 日本の伝統的発酵調味料である味噌について (On miso), Aichi Center for Industry and Science Technology, Food News No. 16, p. 3; type table adapted from みそ技術ハンドブックgov