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Soy and legumes from Japan — Miyagi
Sendai miso is the salty red rice miso of Miyagi. Soybeans are steamed deep, mixed with well-aged rice koji at a low koji ratio and plenty of salt, tamped hard into vats and turned several times over months of ripening. A cool post-ripening finishes it.
| Soybeans100 kg | [MATSUMOTO-1998] |
| Rice (for koji)70 kg | Grown into well-aged rice koji, then mixed with salt (salt-cut koji)[MATSUMOTO-1998] |
| Salt46 kg | Good-quality salt[MATSUMOTO-1998] |
| Seed water, a 12–13 % brineCalculated from the moisture of the beans, koji and salt | [MATSUMOTO-1998] |
| Starter | rice koji (米麹); the guide forbids seed miso and recommends adding lactic bacteria and yeast instead |
Total time across the recorded steps: 5.1 months
What changes: Koji mould grows over the steamed rice for about two days until well aged
Making the koji a little over-aged is part of the style. The guide gives turning points at 36–37 °C (piling), 38–39 °C and 40–42 °C. Output: rice koji, crumbled and mixed with the salt.
Microbes at work in this step
koji mould grows into the rice and makes the enzymes that give the miso its taste
Measured measured in a studySet fixed by a specification or tested recipeReported one source reports itTypical a general value, not sourced for this fermentUnconfirmed not yet checked against a source
Sendai miso is the salty red rice miso of Miyagi. Soybeans are steamed deep, mixed with well-aged rice koji at a low koji ratio and plenty of salt, tamped hard into vats and turned several times over months of ripening. A cool post-ripening finishes it. Made in 6 steps over 5.1 months. The longest step, ferment and turn, takes at least 4 months (Matsumoto I 1998) and runs at up to 30 °C (Matsumoto I 1998). Salt is 21.5 % (Matsumoto I 1998). Koji mould on rice and Added lactic acid bacteria and yeast do most of the fermenting.
| Main step | at least 4 monthsSet[MATSUMOTO-1998] | Ferment and turn |
|---|---|---|
| Temperature | up to 30 °CSet[MATSUMOTO-1998] | Ferment and turn |
| Salt | 21.5 %Set[MATSUMOTO-1998] | Cool the beans and mix with the salted koji and seed water |
Sendai miso uses little koji and a lot of salt, so it ripens slowly and depends on the koji enzymes for its taste. The beans are steamed deep and only coarsely crushed, the mash is tamped hard and turned several times, and a cool post-ripening finishes it. The Aichi type table gives salty red rice miso koji at 5–10, 11–13 % salt and 3–12 months [aichi-itc]. Shinshu miso uses a similar koji ratio but ripens short and stays pale.
Its high salt keeps it stable through months of ripening. The packing guide forbids hot packing and seed miso, and it adds sorbate, alcohol or heat only at shipping to stop packs from swelling.
Every number is labelled with how it is known. How this atlas is made
Tradition holds that the miso Date Masamune took to Korea kept better than other lords' miso, and that he later built a miso works (goenso-gura) in Sendai. In the mid-17th century the domain's Edo mansion at Ōi brewed the same miso and sold its surplus in Edo. Sendai miso became a regional collective trademark in 2007 [MAFF-TF-sendaimiso]. The unified packing guide was written in 1965 after five years of trial brewing, and revised in 1968 and 1988 [MATSUMOTO-1998].
