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Starters and koji from Japan

Rice koji for sake (yellow koji, kome-koji)麹

Polished rice is steeped, steamed and dusted with Aspergillus oryzae spores, then tended for about two days in a warm koji room. The mould grows into the grains and fills them with enzymes that later turn the rice starch into sugar for the sake yeast. Each brewery makes its own koji.

Fully documentedStarters and koji45 h – 2 days

Recipe

Amounts from a sourceBreweries size each koji batch to the sake brew, using 15–25 % of the polished rice; there is no fixed recipe beyond that share.
Polished rice for koji (kōji-mai)15–25 % of the polished rice in a sake batchAt least 15 % for special-designation sake[nrib2011]
Tane-koji (Aspergillus oryzae spores)Bought from spore makers, who grow it on unpolished rice[nrib2011]
Water taken up in the steep30 % of the rice weight[nrib2011]
Starterother: tane-koji (pure Aspergillus oryzae spores, sold by tane-koji makers)

Total time across the recorded steps: 45 h – 2 days

Start
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What changes: Milling grinds away the outer layers of each rice grain

Step 1 of 4
Polish the rice
Time
Not documented
Temperature
Not documented
Salt
None given
Acidity
Not documented
Which microbes the steps name, step by step
Moulds

Output: polished rice.

Flavour
removes the fats, minerals and proteins of the outer layers that spoil sake flavour
Texture
Not documented
Colour
Not documented

Microbes at work in this step

none

Method

Measured measured in a studySet fixed by a specification or tested recipeReported one source reports itTypical a general value, not sourced for this fermentUnconfirmed not yet checked against a source

At a glance

Polished rice is steeped, steamed and dusted with Aspergillus oryzae spores, then tended for about two days in a warm koji room. The mould grows into the grains and fills them with enzymes that later turn the rice starch into sugar for the sake yeast. Each brewery makes its own koji. Made in 4 steps over 45 h – 2 days. The longest step, grow the koji in the koji room, takes 44 h – 2 days (Japan Sake and Shochu Makers Association and…) and runs at 30–36 °C (Japan Sake and Shochu Makers Association and…). Aspergillus oryzae does most of the fermenting.

Key numbers
Main step44 h – 2 daysReported[nrib2011]Grow the koji in the koji room
Temperature30–36 °CReported[nrib2011]Grow the koji in the koji room

What makes this one different

Sake koji is grown for amylase on well-polished rice, with a strain that makes few spores or little pigment so the sake stays clear; ginjo sake must use the spotty tsukihaze style. Soy sauce koji is grown for protease, and miso koji uses strains with moderate protease and amylase.

Related ferments

Variants

  • Koji for miso and shoyuA. oryzae is the main mould for miso koji and A. sojae is used in some; the koji is grown on rice, barley or soybeans, with moderate protease and amylase for miso and more protease for soy sauce (see the soy-legume entries)
  • Tsukihaze and sōhaze kojispotty, deep growth for ginjo sake; full coverage for richer sake

Made the rice koji for sake way

Safety

Koji moulds are related to Aspergillus flavus, which makes aflatoxin, but studies found that the starter strains used in Japan make no aflatoxin, because their aflatoxin genes are deleted or do not work. That finding covers these kept strains, not wild moulds. Keeping the koji cool after the spores germinate holds back Bacillus contamination.

History and sources

Every number is labelled with how it is known. How this atlas is made

Provincial records (fudoki) of the eighth century mention sake made with mould, and the tenth-century Engishiki records how sake was made at court.

  1. [nrib2011] Japan Sake and Shochu Makers Association and National Research Institute of Brewing 2011, A Comprehensive Guide to Japanese Sake, 1st ed.gov
  2. [yasui2020] Yasui M., Oda K., Masuo S., Hosoda S., Katayama T., Maruyama J., Takaya N., Takeshita N. 2020, Invasive growth of Aspergillus oryzae in rice koji and increase of nuclear number, Fungal Biology and Biotechnology 7:8, doi:10.1186/s40694-020-00099-9paper
  3. [kusumoto2021] Kusumoto K-I., Yamagata Y., Tazawa R., Kitagawa M., Kato T., Isobe K., Kashiwagi Y. 2021, Japanese traditional miso and koji making, Journal of Fungi 7(7):579, doi:10.3390/jof7070579paper