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Cheese from Philippines
Carabao milk is set with rennet extract from abomasum, which gives a firmer curd, or in some places with vinegar, which gives a slightly sour one. In the Philippine Carabao Center method the milk sets in 30 minutes to one hour, and the curd is cut, drained, salted and wrapped in banana leaves or packed in plastic. It is eaten fresh within days. Little acid forms, so kesong puti is a boundary case, closer to a fresh rennet or acid-set cheese than to a fermented one.
| Carabao (water buffalo) milk | The Philippine Carabao Center sheet uses buffalo milk; cow milk or a mix is also used[pcc2017][moreno2021] |
| Rennet from abomasum (bahay asim), dissolved in a little water | Both Lumban makers studied used bahay asim. In a lab trial with cow milk, 5 g of diluted rennet went into 100 L of milk.[aquino2011][pcc2017][moreno2021] |
| Dilute vinegar | Used instead of rennet in some places; it gives a slightly sour, softer cheese[pcc2017][barraquio2006] |
| Salt brine400 g of salt in 5 L of water | Boiled and cooled to 35–40 °C, then mixed into the cut curd (Philippine Carabao Center method)[pcc2017] |
Total time across the recorded steps: 2.1 h – 3.3 h
What changes: Rennet from abomasum, or vinegar in some places, is made ready
Both Lumban makers studied coagulate the milk with bahay asim, the abomasum. The coagulant decides the texture, rennet or dilute vinegar. For the Philippine Carabao Center method the rennet is dissolved in a small amount of water before use. Output: rennet from abomasum (bahay asim), or dilute vinegar.
Microbes at work in this step
Not documented for this step.
Measured measured in a studySet fixed by a specification or tested recipeReported one source reports itTypical a general value, not sourced for this fermentUnconfirmed not yet checked against a source
Carabao milk is set with rennet extract from abomasum, which gives a firmer curd, or in some places with vinegar, which gives a slightly sour one. In the Philippine Carabao Center method the milk sets in 30 minutes to one hour, and the curd is cut, drained, salted and wrapped in banana leaves or packed in plastic. It is eaten fresh within days. Little acid forms, so kesong puti is a boundary case, closer to a fresh rennet or acid-set cheese than to a fermented one. Made in 8 steps over 2.1 h – 3.3 h. The longest step, drain the whey and pack, takes 1–1.5 h (Abella M.P. 2017). Salt is 2–2.2 % (Aquino E.M 2011). Lactic bacteria from the raw milk, highest in raw carabao-milk cheese - Lactobacillus helveticus, Lactococcus lactis subsp. lactis, L. rhamnosus, Leuconostoc mesenteroides, L. plantarum and others; their counts rise as the pH falls does most of the fermenting.
| Main step | 1–1.5 hReported[pcc2017] | Drain the whey and pack |
|---|---|---|
| Temperature | 72–75 °CReported[pcc2017] | Pasteurise the milk (PCC method) |
| Salt | 2–2.2 %Measured[aquino2011] | Salt the curd |
| Acidity | pH 6.2–6.3Measured[aquino2011] | Keep cold and eat fresh |
Kesong puti is set with rennet, or vinegar in some places, and eaten within days, so its pH stays near that of milk (6.18–6.34 in Lumban cheese). It is often wrapped in banana leaves. With vinegar it is an acid-set cheese rather than a fermented one.
Most traditional makers do not pasteurise the milk, and a 2006 report says no disease outbreak from the cheese has been documented. Cavite samples carried E. coli and S. aureus, though no Salmonella, Shigella or Yersinia were detected, and the authors blamed unhygienic handling and the cheese's high moisture. A Laguna study isolated Listeria sp. and E. coli type 1. Lumban cheese had coliforms too numerous to count, beyond the 10 cfu/g coliform limit of the Philippine Bureau of Food and Drugs. The cheese is moist, eaten fresh and stays near pH 6.2–6.3, so neither ripening nor acid holds these bacteria back. Use pasteurised milk. The Philippine Carabao Center method pasteurises it at 72–75 °C for 15 seconds and keeps the cheese at 0–4 °C.
Hazards the sources name: Escherichia coli and Staphylococcus aureus, found in Cavite kesong puti; Coliforms, too numerous to count in Lumban cheese; Listeria sp. and Escherichia coli type 1, isolated from kesong puti sampled in Los Baños and Bay, Laguna (2001 study).
Every number is labelled with how it is known. How this atlas is made
Kesong puti making is described as one of the oldest cottage industries in the Philippines. In Lumban, Laguna, the businesses of two cheese makers' families date back to 1900 and 1928. The technology has stayed artisanal and is passed on through generations within the family.
