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Cheese from France, the French side of the Pyrenees from the Mediterranean to the Atlantic
Cow, goat or mixed milk, raw or heat-treated, is set with rennet at no more than 40 °C, cut, stirred below 45 °C and moulded. Once the curd has soured to pH 5.3 or lower, the cheese is salted and ripened in a cellar from 21 to 90 days, depending on its milk and size. Heat-treated-milk wheels over 1.5 kg and up to 5.5 kg may be given a black or golden coating.
| Cow or goat milk, or a mix | Sheep milk only in a mix, at 30–50% by volume; Basco-béarnaise, Castillonnaise and Manech sheep[cdc-tpyr2020] |
| Lactic and ripening cultures | Selected or natural flora[cdc-tpyr2020] |
| Coagulating enzyme (rennet) | [cdc-tpyr2020] |
| Salt | Dry salt, or saturated brine with lactic acid[cdc-tpyr2020] |
| Black or golden coating (optional) | Only on heat-treated-milk wheels over 1.5 kg and up to 5.5 kg; rind colours and anti-mould agents are not allowed on farm or raw-milk cheeses[cdc-tpyr2020] |
| Starter | selected or natural lactic and ripening cultures |
Total time across the recorded steps: 23 days
What changes: Cow, goat or mixed milk is held cool in the tank, with lactic cultures if the maker chooses
Heat-treated milk must be treated within 18 h of arrival. Mixed milks use 30–50% sheep or goat milk.
Microbes at work in this step
Not documented for this step.
Measured measured in a studySet fixed by a specification or tested recipeReported one source reports itTypical a general value, not sourced for this fermentUnconfirmed not yet checked against a source
Cow, goat or mixed milk, raw or heat-treated, is set with rennet at no more than 40 °C, cut, stirred below 45 °C and moulded. Once the curd has soured to pH 5.3 or lower, the cheese is salted and ripened in a cellar from 21 to 90 days, depending on its milk and size. Heat-treated-milk wheels over 1.5 kg and up to 5.5 kg may be given a black or golden coating. Made in 6 steps over 23 days. The longest step, ripen in a cellar, takes at least 21 days (Ministère de l'agriculture 2020) and runs at 7–16 °C (Ministère de l'agriculture 2020). Lactic cultures, selected or natural, which sour the curd to pH 5.3 or lower and Ripening flora on the rind do most of the fermenting.
| Main step | at least 21 daysSet[cdc-tpyr2020] | Ripen in a cellar |
|---|---|---|
| Temperature | 7–16 °CSet[cdc-tpyr2020] | Ripen in a cellar |
| Acidity | pH up to 5.3Set[cdc-tpyr2020] | Mould, turn and sour |
Tomme des Pyrénées is not cooked; the specification links this to the lack of firewood in the Pyrenean valleys, unlike the cooked keeping cheeses of the Alps and Jura. Its rules allow cow, goat and sheep milk to be mixed, which the specification ties to the region's mixed herds.
The specification allows heat-treated or raw milk. Raw-milk tommes fall under ANSES advice that pregnant women, young children, people over 65 and people with weak immunity avoid raw-milk cheeses other than cooked pressed ones.
Hazards the sources name: Listeria monocytogenes, Salmonella and Shiga-toxin-producing E. coli in raw-milk versions (risks ANSES names for raw-milk cheeses).
Every number is labelled with how it is known. How this atlas is made
The specification finds evidence of cows, goats and sheep and cheese making in the Pyrenees from the 12th century, and the 1990s EU application says the cheese has been made since then around Saint-Girons. Shepherds made keeping cheeses in summer and sold them after the herds came down. The first fruitières (cooperatives) opened in 1867, and dairies followed. A court at Foix ruled that the name belonged to the local cheese, and it became a PGI in 1996 (register record).
