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Cheese from Italy, Piemonte
Raw cow milk is soured before it is set, by long creaming or by skimming and then acidifying. Because the milk is already acid, little calf rennet is needed; the curd sets at 32–37 °C in 40–60 minutes, is cut to rice-grain size without cooking, formed in a hemp cloth or mould, pressed and salted. It ripens at least 70 days at 6–12 °C and may blue naturally.
| Raw cow milk, part-skimmed and soured before setting | Some makers now also sell a whole-milk version[pat-sheet][onaf-sheet] |
| Animal rennet, in a reduced dose10–20 cc per 100 l of milk | The sheet says the dose is small because the milk is already acid; some makers still set it with no rennet[pat-sheet] |
| Salt (in the curd, dry or brine) | [pat-sheet] |
| Starter | the milk is soured before it is set, by long creaming or by skimming and then acidifying |
Total time across the recorded steps: 2.4 months – 2.5 months
What changes: In basins the cream rises while the milk acidifies and turns sour ('brusc')
The milk must be acid before it is set. Today it may instead be skimmed first and then acidified.
Microbes at work in this step
Not documented for this step.
Measured measured in a studySet fixed by a specification or tested recipeReported one source reports itTypical a general value, not sourced for this fermentUnconfirmed not yet checked against a source
Raw cow milk is soured before it is set, by long creaming or by skimming and then acidifying. Because the milk is already acid, little calf rennet is needed; the curd sets at 32–37 °C in 40–60 minutes, is cut to rice-grain size without cooking, formed in a hemp cloth or mould, pressed and salted. It ripens at least 70 days at 6–12 °C and may blue naturally. Made in 6 steps over 2.4 months – 2.5 months. The longest step, ripen, takes at least 2.3 months (Regione Piemonte 2015) and runs at 6–12 °C (Regione Piemonte 2015).
| Main step | at least 2.3 monthsReported[pat-sheet] | Ripen |
|---|---|---|
| Temperature | 6–12 °CReported[pat-sheet] | Ripen |
'Sour-milk toma': chalky, crumbly, eyeless and acidic, may blue naturally with age. The milk is soured before setting, so it needs little or no rennet and the curd is not cooked.
The sheet names the creaming of the milk as the step to control and finds no other risks beyond normal cheesemaking. It says the medium-to-long ripening and the technology put the cheese in a medium-to-high band for meeting safety requirements. The milk is raw and stands to cream and sour before it is set. The US FDA says ageing raw-milk cheese for 60 days may not eliminate or adequately reduce E. coli O157:H7 and Salmonella, and Listeria may grow in some cheeses during ageing [fda-rawcheese2016]. ANSES advises pregnant women, people with weak immunity, people over 65 and young children to avoid raw-milk cheese, except cooked pressed cheeses such as Gruyère or Comté [anses2022].
Every number is labelled with how it is known. How this atlas is made
The cheese grew out of not wasting evening milk that turned sour overnight in summer heat before refrigerators; 'brusc' means sour. Such milk sets with little or no rennet. ONAF dates its origin to more than a hundred years ago, and says it was once made only in summer; today it is made all year by letting the milk rest longer. Valley legends tie it to Hannibal's stop in the Susa valley.
