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Cheese from Italy, Piemonte
Raw cow milk from one or two milkings, whole or with the evening milk skimmed, is set with animal rennet at about 35–38 °C in about 60 minutes and cut to maize-size grains. Makers then mould the curd in different ways, often press it, and dry-salt it 12 hours per face. It ripens from 20 days to more than two months, often in natural alpine cellars.
| Raw cow milk from one or two milkings, whole or with the evening milk skimmed by letting the cream rise | [pat-sheet][onaf-sheet] |
| Animal rennet (calf rennet, per ONAF) | [pat-sheet][onaf-sheet] |
| Coarse salt, or brine | [pat-sheet] |
Total time across the recorded steps: 21 days
What changes: Raw cow milk from the alpine pasture goes into the copper cauldron
Raw milk from one or two milkings; the evening milk may be skimmed the next morning after the cream rises (the skimmed-milk type).
Microbes at work in this step
Not documented for this step.
Measured measured in a studySet fixed by a specification or tested recipeReported one source reports itTypical a general value, not sourced for this fermentUnconfirmed not yet checked against a source
Raw cow milk from one or two milkings, whole or with the evening milk skimmed, is set with animal rennet at about 35–38 °C in about 60 minutes and cut to maize-size grains. Makers then mould the curd in different ways, often press it, and dry-salt it 12 hours per face. It ripens from 20 days to more than two months, often in natural alpine cellars. Made in 6 steps over 21 days. The longest step, ripen, takes at least 20 days (Regione Piemonte 2015). Obligately heterofermentative lactic acid bacteria, found at higher levels than in Asiago PDO in a related alpine-pasture cheese, Toma Piemontese PDO made at the Alpe Valcavera does most of the fermenting.
| Main step | at least 20 daysReported[pat-sheet][onaf-sheet] | Ripen |
|---|---|---|
| Temperature | 35–38 °CReported[pat-sheet][onaf-sheet] | Set the curd |
Toma of the mountain areas of the province of Turin, made on alpine pastures; forming method and ripening vary widely between makers.
Made from raw milk and ripened from 20 days. The sheet says alpine milk production must be watched closely for the animals' health, the milking and the storage of the milk before cheesemaking, and that it finds no other risks beyond normal cheesemaking. The US FDA says ageing raw-milk cheese for 60 days may not eliminate or adequately reduce E. coli O157:H7 and Salmonella, and Listeria may grow in some cheeses during ageing [fda-rawcheese2016]. ANSES advises pregnant women, people with weak immunity, people over 65 and young children to avoid raw-milk cheese, except cooked pressed cheeses such as Gruyère or Comté [anses2022]. In a study of six batches from two producers of a related raw-milk Piedmont cheese, Toma tipo Piemonte, Listeria monocytogenes and Salmonella met EU criteria, but coagulase-positive staphylococci rose above 5 log CFU/g in the curd and the 7-day cheese of one producer and stayed near that level at 30 days; no staphylococcal enterotoxin was detected in the samples tested [astegiano2014].
Hazards the sources name: Coagulase-positive staphylococci, higher in the Toma Piemontese PDO from clover-pasture milk (Silvetti); above 5 log CFU/g in the curd and 7-day cheese of one Toma tipo Piemonte producer, with no staphylococcal enterotoxin found (Astegiano); E. coli and Enterobacteriaceae, peaking at 7 days of ripening in the related Toma tipo Piemonte (means of 3.4 and 5.3 log CFU/g at one producer, 4.6 and 6.2 at the other) and falling by the end of 60–90 days of ripening.
Every number is labelled with how it is known. How this atlas is made
The sheet cites Pantaleone da Confienza's Summa lacticinorum (Turin, 1477), which mentions cheeses of the Locana, Ceresole, Lanzo and Susa valleys and Mont Cenis. ONAF adds that many other historical records show the cheese, from tolls to the food purchase lists of noble families and the economic statistics of past centuries.
