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Cheese from Japan
So was cow milk boiled down to about a tenth of its volume and set, a caramel-coloured food with the plain sweetness of milk sugar, made from the Asuka period and paid to the court as tribute. The Heian-period Engishiki rule says boiling 1 to of milk gives 1 shō of so. It is a boundary entry, not a ferment, and the exact old method is not known; today it is made from the texts.
| Cow milk1 to (10 shō) | Boiled down to give 1 shō of so (Engishiki rule); no other ingredient is named[ndl-crd][yamakawa2016][hirata2023] |
| Wooden mould | A modern reconstruction pours the thick milk into a wooden mould to set[maff-so] |
| Starter | none; the Engishiki rule only boils the milk down |
Total time across the recorded steps: 7 h – 8 h
What changes: Starting material: fresh cow milk from the court's dairy cattle
The court's nyūko households kept and milked dairy cattle.
Microbes at work in this step
Not documented for this step.
Measured measured in a studySet fixed by a specification or tested recipeReported one source reports itTypical a general value, not sourced for this fermentUnconfirmed not yet checked against a source
So was cow milk boiled down to about a tenth of its volume and set, a caramel-coloured food with the plain sweetness of milk sugar, made from the Asuka period and paid to the court as tribute. The Heian-period Engishiki rule says boiling 1 to of milk gives 1 shō of so. It is a boundary entry, not a ferment, and the exact old method is not known; today it is made from the texts. Made in 4 steps over 7 h – 8 h. The longest step, boil the milk down, takes 7–8 h (MAFF (Ministry of Agriculture).
| Main step | 7–8 hReported[maff-so] | Boil the milk down |
|---|
Called an ancient cheese, but the Engishiki rule names only boiling the milk down and no curdling agent. A library survey of the sources gives two views of how so was made, by heat treatment of milk or by processing fermented milk (raku). The Engishiki rule fits the first. The Hirata reconstruction judges heat-concentrated milk to have no model in texts that reached Japan, and found further heating scorched it.
A historical food known from old texts and modern reconstructions. MAFF says it kept well, so it was used as a restorative medicine [maff-so]. One reconstruction found milk concentrated to 14 % of its weight kept over a year without mould at room temperature.
Every number is labelled with how it is known. How this atlas is made
MAFF says milk drinking began in Japan under Emperor Kōtoku (645 to 654), when immigrants presented milk, and that so first appears in records in the Engishiki and the Seiji Yakuryaku, which describe a system of tribute so for the court. Wani, quoted by the library service, dates the first record to the tenth month of 700, when envoys were sent to have so made. A wooden tablet found at the Heijō palace site names "raw so" (3 gō) from Ōmi province. In the Heian period 46 provinces sent so in a set order, the Kuraryō handled it, and it was used at rites such as the Daijin Daikyō feast; it disappeared in the Middle Ages (Yamakawa dictionary). MAFF adds that Fujiwara no Michinaga is said to have taken so with honey when he fell ill at 51. A reconstruction in 1987 at the Asuka Museum of the Nara National Research Institute for Cultural Properties led a Nara farm to sell it.
