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Fermented milk from Japan
Raku, so and daigo are the dairy foods of the Nara and Heian court, known only from old texts and modern reconstructions. Raku was a sour milk, so was milk boiled down to about a tenth, and daigo was the oily liquid that sweats out of butter oil; it is also the finest of the Buddhist five flavours, thought to be like cheese or butter oil. This is a boundary entry; raku is the ferment here.
| Milk, for so1 to (10 shō) | Boiled down to give 1 shō of so (Engishiki, 927)[hirata2023] |
| Cow milk, for soAbout 10 parts of milk to 1 part of so | Boiled down to about a tenth of its volume (MAFF)[maff-so] |
| Good sweet lao (raku) from an earlier batch, for rakuHalf a spoon per sheng of milk | The starter in the Qimin Yaoshu method[qmys] |
| Starter | raku: backslop with earlier raku (Qimin Yaoshu) |
Total time across the recorded steps: 7 h – 8 h
What changes: Milk is simmered gently for four or five boils and strained into a pottery jar
The Qimin Yaoshu method heats the milk on a gentle fire, brings it to the boil four or five times, skims off the skin (kept to make su, the butter-like product), and strains the milk through a raw-silk bag into a pottery jar. Output: strained hot milk in a jar.
Microbes at work in this step
Not documented for this step.
Measured measured in a studySet fixed by a specification or tested recipeReported one source reports itTypical a general value, not sourced for this fermentUnconfirmed not yet checked against a source
Raku, so and daigo are the dairy foods of the Nara and Heian court, known only from old texts and modern reconstructions. Raku was a sour milk, so was milk boiled down to about a tenth, and daigo was the oily liquid that sweats out of butter oil; it is also the finest of the Buddhist five flavours, thought to be like cheese or butter oil. This is a boundary entry; raku is the ferment here. Made in 5 steps over 7 h – 8 h. The longest step, so (蘇), milk boiled down, takes 7–8 h (MAFF (Ministry of Agriculture).
| Main step | 7–8 hReported[maff-so] | So (蘇), milk boiled down |
|---|---|---|
| Temperature | 22–25 °CMeasured[hirata2023] | Daigo (醍醐), oil sweating from butter oil |
| Acidity | pH 3.8Measured[hirata2023] | Raku (酪), leave overnight to set |
Raku is the fermented milk. So is milk boiled down to about a tenth, sometimes called an ancient cheese, and daigo is the best of the five flavours of the Nirvana Sutra.
In the Qimin Yaoshu method, the milk for raku is boiled four or five times before the earlier raku is added.
Every number is labelled with how it is known. How this atlas is made
The Engishiki (927) sets the so tribute rule of boiling 1 to of milk to 1 shō of so. The Honzō Wamyō (918) and Ishinpō (984) mix up the characters for su and so. Milk drinking began in Japan under Emperor Kotoku (645–654), when immigrants presented milk. So first appears in the Engishiki and the Seiji Yoryaku, which describe the tribute system under which each region made so for the court. It was a luxury only nobles and officials ate, used as an offering at the palace Buddhist rite at New Year. It was reproduced at the Asuka Historical Museum in 1987 and later sold commercially (MAFF). The Nirvana Sutra names milk, raku, raw su, ripe su and daigo as the five flavours, and the best taste, daigo, was twice the name of an emperor (ALIC). In 2010 Hirata and colleagues reproduced the Seiminyoujyutu recipes and identified raku as sour milk (abstract).
