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Cereals and bread from USA

Salt-rising bread

Salt-rising bread is an Appalachian loaf raised without yeast. A starter of scalded milk, cornmeal and a little flour is kept very warm overnight until it foams and smells of cheese, because Clostridium perfringens grows in it and makes the gas. The starter is built into a sponge, then a dough, which rises in pans and is baked.

Fully documentedCereals and bread13 h – 17 h

Recipe

Amounts from a sourceThe Pearl Haines recipe as printed in a 2014 NPR feature, for one or more loaves; other family recipes use potato or no milk.
Scalded milk1/2 cupStarter[board2014]
Cornmeal3 teaspoonsStarter[board2014]
Flour1 teaspoonStarter[board2014]
Baking soda1/8 teaspoonStarter[board2014]
Sponge2 cups warm water and about 1 1/2 cups flour[board2014]
Dough1 cup warm water and 2 to 3 cups flour per loaf[board2014]
Starterspontaneous; bacteria from the flour and cornmeal, grown warm

Total time across the recorded steps: 13 h – 17 h

Start
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What changes: Hot milk is stirred into cornmeal

Step 1 of 5
Scald the milk and stir in cornmeal
Time
Not documented
Temperature
Not documented
Salt
None given
Acidity
Not documented

Output: scalded milk and cornmeal.

Flavour
Not documented
Texture
Not documented
Colour
Not documented

Microbes at work in this step

Not documented for this step.

Method

Measured measured in a studySet fixed by a specification or tested recipeReported one source reports itTypical a general value, not sourced for this fermentUnconfirmed not yet checked against a source

At a glance

Salt-rising bread is an Appalachian loaf raised without yeast. A starter of scalded milk, cornmeal and a little flour is kept very warm overnight until it foams and smells of cheese, because Clostridium perfringens grows in it and makes the gas. The starter is built into a sponge, then a dough, which rises in pans and is baked. Made in 5 steps over 13 h – 17 h. The longest step, keep the starter warm until it foams, takes 9–11 h (Board G. 2014) and runs at 38–46 °C (Juckett G 2008).

Key numbers
Main step9–11 hReported[board2014]Keep the starter warm until it foams
Temperature38–46 °CReported[juckett2008][board2014]Keep the starter warm until it foams

What makes this one different

Salt-rising bread is raised by bacteria, mainly Clostridium perfringens, not by yeast. Its starter must be kept much warmer than a sourdough, and it smells of cheese rather than sour.

Related ferments

Variants

  • Chickpea-leavened bread (eftazymo, nohut mayası)Wikipedia lists similar wild-fermented breads made with chickpeas or lentils in Greece, Cyprus, Turkey, South Africa and Sudan (separate entry).

Safety

The leavening bacterium is Clostridium perfringens type A, a common cause of food poisoning. When starters were cultured at the University of Pittsburgh in 2002 (reported in 2008), every sample grew it, but no culture carried the enterotoxin. A few colonies grew from baked bread, most likely from spores, and they lacked the enterotoxin gene. The authors note that the enterotoxin is inactivated above 175 °F (about 79 °C) and that bread bakes above 220 °F (about 104 °C). No illness has been linked to the bread in the literature, but they warn that any starter picks up its bacteria from the environment, so another could carry a toxic strain, and that mild outbreaks could go undetected. The starter and raw dough are full of this bacterium, so do not taste them, and bake the loaf through. The authors say the illness can be serious in the elderly and in people with weak immunity.

Hazards the sources name: Clostridium perfringens type A, the bacterium that raises the bread; abundant in every starter tested, but none carried the enterotoxin; Clostridium welchii (the old name for C. perfringens), found in starters and in the inside of loaves in the 1920s.

History and sources

Every number is labelled with how it is known. How this atlas is made

Juckett et al. trace the work on the rising agent. Wiley et al. isolated "Bacillis levens" from salt-rising dough in 1898, and Heineman a lactic acid bacterium from cornmeal in 1909. In 1912 Kohman concluded that a spore-forming anaerobe, not a yeast, raised the bread. In the 1920s Koser found Bacillus welchii (now Clostridium perfringens) in starters and inside loaves, and a 1949 study confirmed Kohman's 1912 starter held it. Wikipedia gives 1778, from what is now West Virginia, as the earliest recipe found.

  1. [juckett2008] Juckett G., Bardwell G., McClane B., Brown S. 2008, The microbiology of salt rising bread, West Virginia Medical Journal 104:26–27 (full article read, from the West Virginia Public Broadcasting copy)paper
  2. [board2014] Board G. 2014, Bake bread like a pioneer in Appalachia with no yeast, West Virginia Public Broadcasting for NPR The Salt, 23 April 2014 (republished by KQED), with the Pearl Haines recipeweb
  3. [wp] Wikipedia, Salt-rising bread (outline of region, earliest recipe and similar breads)wiki