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Alcoholic drinks from Japan
Yamahai sake is brewed from a yeast starter that wild lactic bacteria sour on their own, as in kimoto, but without the step of working the rice into a paste. The starter is mixed cold, near 8 °C, warmed a little each day and takes three to four weeks before it goes into an ordinary three-step sake mash.
| Yamahai starter (shubo)23 mL | First addition (soe) of a lab-scale mash[fujiwara2023] |
| Koji rice9.6 g, 12.0 g and 14.4 g | For the first, middle and last additions (soe, naka, tome)[fujiwara2023] |
| Steamed rice26.6 g, 54.6 g and 99.4 g | For the soe, naka and tome additions[fujiwara2023] |
| Water33 mL, 64 mL and 112 mL | For the soe, naka and tome additions[fujiwara2023] |
| Starter | spontaneous (natural lactic bacteria in the starter), with sake yeast added |
Total time across the recorded steps: 2.3 months – 2.6 months
What changes: Koji mould spreads over the steamed rice and fills it with enzymes
Output: koji rice.
Microbes at work in this step
Aspergillus oryzae grows through the rice and makes the enzymes
Measured measured in a studySet fixed by a specification or tested recipeReported one source reports itTypical a general value, not sourced for this fermentUnconfirmed not yet checked against a source
Yamahai sake is brewed from a yeast starter that wild lactic bacteria sour on their own, as in kimoto, but without the step of working the rice into a paste. The starter is mixed cold, near 8 °C, warmed a little each day and takes three to four weeks before it goes into an ordinary three-step sake mash. Made in 7 steps over 2.3 months – 2.6 months. The longest step, ferment the main mash, takes 25–30 days (Tatsukami Y. et al. 2018) and runs at 5.8–10.4 °C (Tatsukami Y. et al. 2018). Latilactobacillus sakei, dominant in the middle stage of the starter and Lactobacillus acidipiscis, dominant early in one year's starter do most of the fermenting.
| Main step | 25–30 daysReported[tatsukami2018][fujiwara2023] | Ferment the main mash |
|---|---|---|
| Temperature | 5.8–10.4 °CReported[tatsukami2018] | Ferment the main mash |
Kimoto stirs the rice, koji and water with a paddle to break the rice into a paste. Yamahai skips that step and lets time and the koji enzymes dissolve the rice instead. Unlike sokujo sake, no lactic acid is added, so the starter takes three to four weeks instead of about two.
The natural lactic acid bacteria in the starter keep putrefactive microbes in check (Koyanagi et al. 2016 abstract). Pasteurising at 60–65 °C stops enzymes and kills microbes before storage.
Every number is labelled with how it is known. How this atlas is made
The national brewing institute (now NRIB) invented yamahai-moto in 1909 as an improved version of kimoto (the NRIB guide's date; Wikipedia says only the early 1900s). Wikipedia says yamahai was meant to speed production compared with kimoto but is slower than the modern method, and is now used only in specialty brews.
