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Fermented milk from Northern China

Su (酥), churned from lao and rendered酥

A 6th-century Qimin Yaoshu recipe for su, a butter churned from sun-warmed lao (soured milk) with hot and then cold water. The butter is gathered for about ten days and rendered over a slow dung fire into su. A 2010 reproduction of the Qimin Yaoshu recipes identified su as butter and butter oil.

Fully documentedFermented milk10 days

Recipe

No fixed amounts recordedAmounts are the recipe's own proportions; a big jar is used for much lao and a small one for little.
Lao (soured milk)Sweet or sour lao both work[qmys-ws]
Hot waterhalf the volume of the lao[qmys-ws]
Cold waterthe same as the hot water, added twice[qmys-ws]

Total time across the recorded steps: 10 days

Start
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What changes: Sun-warmed lao is churned with a holed elm-wood paddle that reaches the jar's bottom

Step 1 of 4
Warm the lao in the sun, then churn
Time
Set in the sun from early morning until the sun is in the south-west, then churned for about the time of a meal
Reported
Temperature
Not documented
Salt
None given
Acidity
Not documented

Output: warm churned lao.

Flavour
Not documented
Texture
Not documented
Colour
Not documented

Microbes at work in this step

Not documented for this step.

Method

Measured measured in a studySet fixed by a specification or tested recipeReported one source reports itTypical a general value, not sourced for this fermentUnconfirmed not yet checked against a source

At a glance

A 6th-century Qimin Yaoshu recipe for su, a butter churned from sun-warmed lao (soured milk) with hot and then cold water. The butter is gathered for about ten days and rendered over a slow dung fire into su. A 2010 reproduction of the Qimin Yaoshu recipes identified su as butter and butter oil. Made in 4 steps over 10 days. The longest step, gather the butter in cold water and press it into balls, takes 10 days (Jia Sixie 2026).

Key numbers
Main step10 daysReported[qmys-ws]Gather the butter in cold water and press it into balls

What makes this one different

Su is churned from soured milk with hot and then cold water, and is rendered after about ten days' gathering.

Related ferments

Variants

  • Su from milk skinsSkins skimmed from the boiling milk and the yellow skin of set lao are ground with hot and then cold water and give pure good su, rendered with the main batch.

Safety

Its recipe renders the butter until the bubbling of the milk left in it stops, and keeps the su in a sheep's stomach in winter or a watertight vessel in summer.

History and sources

Every number is labelled with how it is known. How this atlas is made

Qimin Yaoshu, vol. 6, ch. 57 (抨酥法). The Ming Bencao Gangmu records a later su method where milk is boiled two or three times, cooled, and the skin taken and rendered. In 2010 Hirata and colleagues reproduced the Qimin Yaoshu milk recipes and identified su as butter and butter oil (abstract).

Starter
The sources we found do not say how its fermentation begins.
Microbes
No study we found names its microbes.
Temperature, salt and pH
The 6th-century Qimin Yaoshu gives the water temperature only in words, and no study we found has measured this recipe.
  1. [qmys-ws] Jia Sixie, Qimin Yaoshu (6th century), vol. 6, ch. 57 養羊, 抨酥法; Chinese text on Wikisource (齊民要術/卷第六), read 2026-10archive
  2. [bcgm-ws] Li Shizhen, Bencao Gangmu (1578), 獸之一, entry 酥 (quoting the Shenyin method); Chinese text on Wikisource, read 2026-10archive
  3. [hirata2010] Hirata M., Yoneda Y., Ariga H., Uchida K., Motoshima H., Hanada M., Kawai M. 2010, Reproduction and identification of ancient dairy products in East Asia based on 'Seiminyoujyutu', Milk Science 59(1):9–22 (abstract, read on FAO AGRIS)paper