Skip to main content
Support

Browse by category

All categories
Home

Fermented milk from Northern China

Lao (酪), Northern Wei soured milk酪

A 6th-century Qimin Yaoshu recipe for soured milk. Cow's or sheep's milk is simmered over a dried-dung fire, strained through raw silk into a fired clay jar, and set overnight with half a spoon of old sweet lao per sheng of milk, kept a little warmer than the body.

Fully documentedFermented milk

Recipe

No fixed amounts recordedAmounts are the recipe's own, in Northern Wei measures (1 dou = 10 sheng).
Cow's or sheep's milkMade separately or mixed, as the maker likes; season from the end of the 3rd month to the end of the 8th month[qmys-ws]
Sweet lao from an earlier batch, as the starterhalf a spoon per sheng of boiled milk[qmys-ws]
Sour rice gruel (醋飧), ground fine, if no lao is to handone spoon per dou of milk[qmys-ws]
Starterback-slopped with old sweet lao; or sour rice gruel when no lao is to hand
Start
Drag the bar or press Play

What changes: Cows and ewes are milked in the grass season, leaving a third of the milk for the young

Step 1 of 4
Milk the cows and ewes in the grass season
Time
Not documented
Temperature
Not documented
Salt
None given
Acidity
Not documented
Which microbes the steps name, step by step
L. delbrueckii

Output: fresh milk.

Flavour
Not documented
Texture
Not documented
Colour
Not documented

Microbes at work in this step

Not documented for this step.

Method

Measured measured in a studySet fixed by a specification or tested recipeReported one source reports itTypical a general value, not sourced for this fermentUnconfirmed not yet checked against a source

At a glance

A 6th-century Qimin Yaoshu recipe for soured milk. Cow's or sheep's milk is simmered over a dried-dung fire, strained through raw silk into a fired clay jar, and set overnight with half a spoon of old sweet lao per sheng of milk, kept a little warmer than the body. In tarag, a related Mongolian soured milk of cows, goats and yaks, Lactobacillus delbrueckii was the predominant lactic acid bacterium across 26 samples does most of the fermenting.

What makes this one different

The recipe ties the result to warmth and dose. Set too hot, or with too much or sour starter, the lao comes out sour; too cold, it will not set.

Related ferments

Variants

  • Dried lao (作乾酪法)Made in the 7th–8th months. Lao is warmed in the sun and its skin skimmed again and again until no fat is left, stir-fried briefly, then sun-dried in pear-sized balls that keep for years for travel. One ball flavours five boilings of gruel.
  • Strained lao (作漉酪法)Made in the 8th month. Lao hangs in a raw-cloth bag until it stops dripping, is briefly stir-fried and sun-dried in pear-sized balls; it tastes better than dried lao, and unfried it breeds insects.
  • Mare's-milk lao starter (作馬酪酵法)Two or three sheng of donkey's milk is mixed into mare's milk; the sediment of the set lao is rolled into a ball and sun-dried as next year's starter.

Safety

Its recipe boils the milk four or five times before setting it, and heats an old jar through in embers before the jar is used again.

History and sources

Every number is labelled with how it is known. How this atlas is made

Qimin Yaoshu, vol. 6, ch. 57 (養羊). The Ming Bencao Gangmu later quotes a similar method, with milk boiled tens of times, the skin skimmed for su and a little old lao added under a paper seal. In 2010 Hirata and colleagues reproduced the Qimin Yaoshu milk recipes and identified raku (lao) as sour milk (abstract).

Temperature, salt and pH
The 6th-century Qimin Yaoshu gives the setting warmth only in words, and no study we found has measured this recipe.
  1. [qmys-ws] Jia Sixie, Qimin Yaoshu (6th century), vol. 6, ch. 57 養羊, 作酪法, 作乾酪法, 作漉酪法 and 作馬酪酵法; Chinese text on Wikisource (齊民要術/卷第六), read 2026-10archive
  2. [bcgm-ws] Li Shizhen, Bencao Gangmu (1578), 獸之一, entry 酪 (quoting the Shenyin method); Chinese text on Wikisource, read 2026-10archive
  3. [hirata2010] Hirata M., Yoneda Y., Ariga H., Uchida K., Motoshima H., Hanada M., Kawai M. 2010, Reproduction and identification of ancient dairy products in East Asia based on 'Seiminyoujyutu', Milk Science 59(1):9–22 (abstract, read on FAO AGRIS)paper
  4. [oki2014] Oki K., Dugersuren J., Demberel S., Watanabe K. 2014, Pyrosequencing analysis of the microbial diversity of airag, khoormog and tarag, traditional fermented dairy products of Mongolia, Bioscience of Microbiota, Food and Health 33(2):53-64, doi:10.12938/bmfh.33.53 (abstract, read on Europe PMC, PMC4081183)paper