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Fermented milk from China
Early Chinese texts rank milk products in a chain, milk to lao (soured milk), to raw su, to cooked su, to tihu, the finest. The Qimin Yaoshu gives working recipes for lao and su; tihu is known only from short notes quoted in the Bencao Gangmu, so its step here is a reconstruction from those notes, not a tested recipe.
| Cow's or sheep's milk | [qmys-ws] |
| Old lao as the starterHalf a spoon per sheng of boiled milk | [qmys-ws] |
| Good su (rendered butter), for tihu1 dan of good su gives 3–4 sheng of tihu | [bcgm-ws] |
| Starter | back-slopped with old lao for the soured milk |
Total time across the recorded steps: 11 days
What changes: Boiled milk set with old lao sours overnight into lao
Full recipe under qmys-lao-soured-milk. The Qimin Yaoshu does not name a starter beyond old lao, so the reproduction used a commercial sour milk. It found the lao to be 86.8 % moisture, 3.3 % protein, 3.8 % fat and 5.0 % carbohydrate, and judged it a sour milk. Output: lao (soured milk).
Microbes at work in this step
lactic bacteria from the old lao sour the milk
Measured measured in a studySet fixed by a specification or tested recipeReported one source reports itTypical a general value, not sourced for this fermentUnconfirmed not yet checked against a source
Early Chinese texts rank milk products in a chain, milk to lao (soured milk), to raw su, to cooked su, to tihu, the finest. The Qimin Yaoshu gives working recipes for lao and su; tihu is known only from short notes quoted in the Bencao Gangmu, so its step here is a reconstruction from those notes, not a tested recipe. Made in 4 steps over 11 days. The longest step, render raw su into cooked su, takes 10 days (Jia Sixie 2026). In tarag, a Mongolian soured milk related to lao, Lactobacillus delbrueckii was the predominant species (74.6 % average abundance across 26 samples), with L. helveticus and Streptococcus thermophilus also found does most of the fermenting.
| Main step | 10 daysReported[qmys-ws] | Render raw su into cooked su |
|---|---|---|
| Temperature | 38 °CReported[hirata2010] | Sour boiled milk into lao |
| Acidity | pH 6.6 → 3.8Measured[hirata2010] | Sour boiled milk into lao |
Only the first step is a fermentation; su and tihu are fat separated from it. Tihu is known from short notes, not a full recipe.
The Qimin Yaoshu says a damp jar makes the lao fail to set, so a jar that has held lao before is fired over embers until dry and cooled before use. Setting the lao too warm makes it sour and too cold keeps it from setting; a starter that is too sour or too much sweet lao also sours it. The same chapter adds that dried lao and strained lao last for years but taste stale, and that strained lao not fried breeds worms and cannot be kept past summer.
Every number is labelled with how it is known. How this atlas is made
In 2010 Hirata and colleagues reproduced the Qimin Yaoshu recipes and identified lao as a sour milk and su as butter and butter oil; they could not identify the dried lao. The Nirvana Sutra, in its southern 36-juan Chinese text, likens the stages of teaching to milk becoming lao, raw su, cooked su and tihu, and calls tihu the best, curing every illness. Of the writers quoted in the Bencao Gangmu, Tao Hongjing cites this Buddhist chain, and Su Gong calls tihu the essence of su.
