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Alcoholic drinks from Central Mexico
A mature agave is castrated and its central cavity scraped so that it fills with sweet sap, aguamiel, which is collected twice a day. Mixed with a seed of older pulque, the sap ferments in a few hours into a milky, viscous, slightly sour drink of about 4–7 % alcohol.
| Fresh aguamiel | Filtered to remove insects and debris before it goes into the vat[escalante2016] |
| Seed (semilla), for the first starterAbout 2 L of pulque to a ~20 L vat of aguamiel | The seed then goes into clean vats, where fresh aguamiel is added[escalante2016] |
| Starter | back-slop (semilla, a mature pulque starter) |
Total time across the recorded steps: 6.5 years – 17 years
What changes: The agave grows for years before it is ready to give sap
Output: mature maguey.
Microbes at work in this step
Not documented for this step.
Measured measured in a studySet fixed by a specification or tested recipeReported one source reports itTypical a general value, not sourced for this fermentUnconfirmed not yet checked against a source
A mature agave is castrated and its central cavity scraped so that it fills with sweet sap, aguamiel, which is collected twice a day. Mixed with a seed of older pulque, the sap ferments in a few hours into a milky, viscous, slightly sour drink of about 4–7 % alcohol. Made in 6 steps over 6.5 years – 17 years. The longest step, grow the agave to maturity, takes 6–15 years (Escalante A 2016). Zymomonas mobilis and Saccharomyces cerevisiae and other yeasts do most of the fermenting.
| Main step | 6–15 yearsReported[escalante2016] | Grow the agave to maturity |
|---|---|---|
| Acidity | pH 3.5–4Set[nmx-v-037][escalante2016] | Serve plain or curado |
Pulque starts from sap, not grain or fruit, and it is fermented by a bacterium as much as by yeast. Zymomonas mobilis makes ethanol alongside Saccharomyces, and Zymomonas and Leuconostoc make the slime that gives pulque its thread. The fermentation usually lasts 3 to 6 hours.
Pulque does not keep well. It develops off flavours in long storage, and pasteurising changes its flavour and destroys its microbes, so many drinkers prefer it fresh. The Mexican pulque norm (NMX-V-037-1972) sets pH 3.5–4.2 and 4–9 % alcohol for pulque sold in bulk. In one lab fermentation of aguamiel with pulque, Enterobacter agglomerans was the most abundant non-lactic bacterium in the first 3 hours. A 2016 review supposes that bacteria of this group reach the sap as contaminants, in the plant cavity or during extraction and handling. WHO says no level of alcohol use is safe for health.
Hazards the sources name: Enterobacter agglomerans, the most abundant non-lactic bacterium in the first 3 h of one lab fermentation of aguamiel with pulque, and no longer among the main species at 6 h.
Every number is labelled with how it is known. How this atlas is made
Bacterial markers of Zymomonas mobilis in potsherds show that pulque was kept in pottery at La Ventilla, Teotihuacan, around 200–550 AD. By the early twentieth century, production reached about 500 million L a year.
