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Sun-dried maocha, the green leaf of Yunnan's large-leaf tea, is wetted and heaped about a metre high. Heat-loving moulds, yeasts and bacteria warm the pile to 50–63 °C, and over a month or more of turning the leaf darkens and the taste mellows. The leaf is then dried and sold loose or pressed.
Fully documentedTea leaf37 days – 40 days
Recipe
No fixed amounts recordedA factory process. Guan et al. used 15 tonnes of maocha in total for their two Xiaguan batches, piled in heaps about 1.0 m high; nothing is added but water.
Sun-dried maocha
Large-leaf tea, withered, roasted, rolled and sun-dried; 8.3 % moisture in the Xiaguan study[zhang2016][guan2026]
Spring water
Added until the leaf is about 40 % water[guan2026]
No starter
Guan et al. call the Xiaguan protocol a spontaneous pile fermentation; Hu et al. say the microbes come from the tea leaves, the water and the surroundings[guan2026][hu2025]
Starter
spontaneous
Total time across the recorded steps: 37 days – 40 days
Start
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What changes:Starting material: dry, sun-dried maocha leaf
Step 1 of 6
Start from sun-dried maocha
Time
Not documented
Temperature
Not documented
Salt
None given
Acidity
Not documented
Which microbes the steps name, step by step
Moulds
Yeasts
Kocuria
For maocha the fresh leaf is withered, roasted to stop its enzymes, rolled and sun-dried. Output: sun-dried maocha.
Flavour
Not documented
Texture
Not documented
Colour
Not documented
Microbes at work in this step
Not documented for this step.
Method
Measured measured in a studySet fixed by a specification or tested recipeReported one source reports itTypical a general value, not sourced for this fermentUnconfirmed not yet checked against a source
At a glance
Sun-dried maocha, the green leaf of Yunnan's large-leaf tea, is wetted and heaped about a metre high. Heat-loving moulds, yeasts and bacteria warm the pile to 50–63 °C, and over a month or more of turning the leaf darkens and the taste mellows. The leaf is then dried and sold loose or pressed. Made in 6 steps over 37 days – 40 days. The longest step, let the pile ferment and heat, takes 30 days (Hu M 2025) and runs at 51.5–62.9 °C (Hu M 2025). Aspergillus niger, called the main fermenting mould in earlier studies, found in all raw and ripened samples and Blastobotrys adeninivorans, the most dominant fungal species in ripened samples do most of the fermenting.
Ripe pu-erh is made by fermenting the same maocha as raw pu-erh in a hot, wet pile. The method was developed in the 1970s to shorten the ageing raw pu-erh needs; raw pu-erh is pressed without piling and ages slowly.
Xiaguan industrial wet pileThe 2020 Xiaguan Tuocha protocol with 8 re-pilings (see pu-erh-shou-industrial-tuocha).
Safety
Ripe pu-erh is fermented by uncontrolled moulds, so fungal toxins are a known concern. One study of 16 ripe samples found patulin in 2 of them (mean 915 µg/kg of dry leaf) and no ochratoxin A, even though Aspergillus species that can make it were present. The authors say other studies did find aflatoxin B1, deoxynivalenol and ochratoxin A in pu-erh, so results conflict. They report that every toxin they detected except patulin and asperglaucide was under the safety limit. They expect patulin in a prepared cup, which they did not measure, to exceed the 50 µg/kg limit the US FDA sets for apple juice (Zhang et al. 2016).
Hazards the sources name: Aspergillus species able to make ochratoxin A (A. niger, A. ochraceus) were present; no ochratoxin A was detected in the tea.
Zhang et al. (2016) say ripe pu-erh was developed in the 1970s to shorten the long ageing that raw pu-erh needs. Wikipedia says the wòduī (wet piling) process was developed in 1973 by the Kunming Tea Factory and adopted shortly after at the Menghai Tea Factory.