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Cheese from Italy, Lazio
Raw ewe milk is set with lamb or kid rennet, broken to rice-grain size and rested under the whey. The curd is scalded with water at 80 °C and pressed into shape by hand, salted, dried for a few days and cold-smoked over apple wood. It is eaten soon after or ripened for up to 80 days.
| Raw whole ewe milk | From two to four milkings, filtered through a strainer or cloth; made November to June[arsial-pressato][onaf-pressato] |
| Lamb or kid rennet paste, or liquid rennet | [arsial-pressato] |
| Hot water | At 80 °C, poured over the curd before pressing by hand[arsial-pressato] |
| Salt | Dry, or saturated brine[arsial-pressato] |
| Apple wood | Burned for the cold smoke[arsial-pressato][onaf-pressato] |
Total time across the recorded steps: 2.7 months
What changes: Rennet goes into raw ewe milk warmed to 38–39 °C and it sets
Output: curd.
Microbes at work in this step
Not documented for this step.
Measured measured in a studySet fixed by a specification or tested recipeReported one source reports itTypical a general value, not sourced for this fermentUnconfirmed not yet checked against a source
Raw ewe milk is set with lamb or kid rennet, broken to rice-grain size and rested under the whey. The curd is scalded with water at 80 °C and pressed into shape by hand, salted, dried for a few days and cold-smoked over apple wood. It is eaten soon after or ripened for up to 80 days. Made in 7 steps over 2.7 months. The longest step, ripen briefly, takes up to 2.6 months (ARSIAL (Lazio regional agency for agricultura…) and runs at 10–12 °C (ARSIAL (Lazio regional agency for agricultura…).
| Main step | up to 2.6 monthsReported[arsial-pressato][onaf-pressato] | Ripen briefly |
|---|---|---|
| Temperature | 10–12 °CReported[arsial-pressato] | Ripen briefly |
The curd is worked by hand in very hot water instead of being only drained in a mould. ARSIAL says it is scalded with water at 80 °C and pressed by hand for a few minutes, as Columella described, which gives a texture close to a stretched curd; ONAF says the curd first goes lightly pressed into rectangular baskets and the forms are then dipped in boiling water and pressed by hand. It is then cold-smoked over apple wood.
The milk is raw and the cheese is soft and moist. The UK NHS advises that soft cheese made from unpasteurised milk be cooked until steaming hot in pregnancy, because of Listeria. A study added E. coli O157 to raw and thermised ewe milk. It was still detectable in Pecorino, a related cheese, after 90 days of ripening, longer than this cheese ripens.
Hazards the sources name: Escherichia coli O157, added on purpose to raw and thermised ewe milk in a challenge study of Pecorino, a related ewe-milk cheese; still detectable after 90 days of ripening.
Every number is labelled with how it is known. How this atlas is made
The Roman writer Columella describes manu pressum, curd shaped by hand under hot water, hardened in brine and coloured with apple-wood or straw smoke, in book VII of De re rustica, which the sheets date to 50 AD.
