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Cheese from Italy, Marche
A Marche pecorino of raw ewe milk, already ripened for 40–60 days, is wrapped in walnut or chestnut leaves, or layered with herbs or grape pomace, and shut in oak casks, barrels or vats for 20–90 days to ferment again. After the cask is opened the cheeses air on wooden boards for at least 10 days.
| Marche pecorino, medium to small wheels | Raw local ewe milk, local natural rennet, dry-salted; ripened 40–60 days before the cask[marche-botte][marche-pecorino] |
| Walnut or chestnut leaves | To wrap the cheeses[marche-botte][onaf-botte] |
| Herbs (savory, nepitella, bay, thyme) or grape pomaceoptional | Layered with the cheeses instead of, or with, leaves[marche-botte][onaf-botte] |
| Verdicchio or local red wineoptional | The cheeses are sometimes submerged in it[marche-botte][onaf-botte] |
| Starter | The base-pecorino sheet allows added lactic cultures if they do not change the typical character of the cheese. |
Total time across the recorded steps: 2.4 months – 6.3 months
What changes: Raw ewe milk is set with local rennet and the curd is pressed into hoops by hand
Output: young pecorino.
Microbes at work in this step
Not documented for this step.
Measured measured in a studySet fixed by a specification or tested recipeReported one source reports itTypical a general value, not sourced for this fermentUnconfirmed not yet checked against a source
A Marche pecorino of raw ewe milk, already ripened for 40–60 days, is wrapped in walnut or chestnut leaves, or layered with herbs or grape pomace, and shut in oak casks, barrels or vats for 20–90 days to ferment again. After the cask is opened the cheeses air on wooden boards for at least 10 days. Made in 6 steps over 2.4 months – 6.3 months. The longest step, ripen before the cask, takes 40 days – 3 months (Regione Marche 2014).
| Main step | 40 days – 3 monthsReported[marche-botte][onaf-botte] | Ripen before the cask |
|---|---|---|
| Temperature | 45–48 °CReported[marche-pecorino] | Make the base pecorino |
The cheese is not made differently; it is finished. A two-month pecorino is shut in oak casks with walnut or chestnut leaves, herbs, pomace or wine for 20–90 days so it ferments again, then aired on boards.
The base pecorino is made from raw milk. In a challenge study, E. coli O157 added to raw ewe milk was still detectable in pecorino after 90 days of ripening, so clean milk matters. ANSES, the French food safety agency, says Listeria and enterohaemorrhagic E. coli in raw-milk cheeses can kill, and advises pregnant women, people with weak immunity, people over 65 and young children to avoid raw-milk cheeses other than cooked pressed ones such as Gruyère or Comté.
Hazards the sources name: Escherichia coli O157 in raw ewe milk; in a challenge study it was still detectable in pecorino after 90 days of ripening.
Every number is labelled with how it is known. How this atlas is made
Castore Durante's Herbario nuovo (1585) already mentions leaves in contact with cheese.
