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Cheese from Italy, Toscana
Pasteurised milk of Sarda sheep is set with lactic starter and liquid calf rennet at 36–38 °C, broken to corn size and left to sour and drain 24 hours in wooden hoops. The dry-salted cheeses ripen 60–120 days in cold rooms, then at least 90 days wrapped in walnut leaves in terracotta jars (ziri). In the jars they soften, often lose shape and take on a tannic walnut-leaf smell.
| Whole milk of Sarda sheep, pasteurised | Evening milk, cooled, and morning milk[pat-sheet][onaf-sheet] |
| Lactic starter | [pat-sheet][onaf-sheet] |
| Calf rennet (liquid) | [pat-sheet][onaf-sheet] |
| Coarse salt | [pat-sheet][onaf-sheet] |
| Walnut leaves, sometimes fig leaves | From trees never treated with chemicals; some makers dry and crumble them first[pat-sheet][onaf-sheet] |
| Starter | lactic starter |
Total time across the recorded steps: 5 months – 6.9 months
What changes: The sheep milk is heated to 72–74 °C and cooled again
Microbes at work in this step
Not documented for this step.
Measured measured in a studySet fixed by a specification or tested recipeReported one source reports itTypical a general value, not sourced for this fermentUnconfirmed not yet checked against a source
Pasteurised milk of Sarda sheep is set with lactic starter and liquid calf rennet at 36–38 °C, broken to corn size and left to sour and drain 24 hours in wooden hoops. The dry-salted cheeses ripen 60–120 days in cold rooms, then at least 90 days wrapped in walnut leaves in terracotta jars (ziri). In the jars they soften, often lose shape and take on a tannic walnut-leaf smell. Made in 7 steps over 5 months – 6.9 months. The longest step, first ripening, cold, takes 2–3.9 months (ONAF (Organizzazione Nazionale Assaggiatori F…) and runs at 4–8 °C (ONAF (Organizzazione Nazionale Assaggiatori F…). Lactic acid bacteria does most of the fermenting.
| Main step | 2–3.9 monthsReported[onaf-sheet] | First ripening, cold |
|---|---|---|
| Temperature | 4–8 °CReported[onaf-sheet] | First ripening, cold |
It ripens twice, first in a cold room and then at least 90 days wrapped in walnut leaves in terracotta jars. The jars keep the cheese soft and give it the leaves' tannic smell.
The milk is pasteurised and a starter is used. ONAF says the leaves must come from trees that were never treated with chemicals.
Every number is labelled with how it is known. How this atlas is made
ONAF says Sardinian shepherds who moved to Tuscany with their flocks brought their cheesemaking. Legend has it that sharecroppers hid cheese from the landowner in old jars under leaves; ONAF thinks the jars were simply a way to keep cheese where there was no cave or cellar.
