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Alcoholic drinks from Tokaj
Noble rot wines are made from ripe white grapes that the mould Botrytis cinerea has shrivelled on the vine, so their juice is very sweet. The rotten berries are picked by hand, often one by one, and fermented slowly. In Tokaj the picked aszú berries are soaked in must or wine before pressing; in Sauternes the grapes are pressed and the juice ferments, often in barrels.
| Aszú berries (single grapes shrivelled by noble rot), picked by hand | In Tokaj, at least 26.08 % vol potential alcohol (45 refractometer %) in the berries used for Aszú and Eszencia[tokaj-spec] |
| Must, partly fermented must, new wine or wine of the same vintage (Tokaji Aszú) | [tokaj-spec] |
| Overripe Sémillon, Sauvignon and Muscadelle grapes with noble rot (Sauternes) | Minimum natural potential alcohol 15 %[sauternes-spec] |
Total time across the recorded steps: 3 years
What changes: Botrytis mould shrivels the ripe berries on the vine and their sugar concentrates
Morning fog and dew with warm sunny days favour noble rot (Hegyi et al. 2022). In bad weather any early stage of noble rot can turn into grey rot, which spoils the grapes. Output: shrivelled botrytised berries.
Microbes at work in this step
Botrytis cinerea grows into the skins and the berries lose water
Measured measured in a studySet fixed by a specification or tested recipeReported one source reports itTypical a general value, not sourced for this fermentUnconfirmed not yet checked against a source
Noble rot wines are made from ripe white grapes that the mould Botrytis cinerea has shrivelled on the vine, so their juice is very sweet. The rotten berries are picked by hand, often one by one, and fermented slowly. In Tokaj the picked aszú berries are soaked in must or wine before pressing; in Sauternes the grapes are pressed and the juice ferments, often in barrels. Made in 5 steps over 3 years. The longest step, age in wood and bottle, takes at least 3 years (Tokaj / Tokaji PDO (PDO-HU-A1254) 2014). Yeasts of Tokaj Eszencia reported in earlier work, among them Zygosaccharomyces bailii, Z. rouxii, Starmerella bacillaris and Saccharomyces cerevisiae; the sweet must (up to 850 g/L sugar) ferments very slowly and stays under 8 % v/v alcohol does most of the fermenting.
| Main step | at least 3 yearsSet[tokaj-spec] | Age in wood and bottle |
|---|---|---|
| Temperature | up to 13 °CReported[csoma2023] | Ferment slowly, often in barrels |
Before any fermentation, Botrytis cinerea grows on ripe white grapes and dries them on the vine, so the juice is very sweet; Tokaj aszú berries can reach 350–700 g/L of sugar. The berries are picked by hand in several passes, and the wine keeps much of its sugar. Ice wine gets its sweetness from frozen grapes instead of mould.
The residual sugar that makes these wines sweet also feeds osmotolerant spoilage yeasts (Starmerella and Zygosaccharomyces) during ageing in barrel and bottle; Z. lentus strains tolerate sulphur and 8 % v/v alcohol. In bad weather, early noble rot can turn into grey rot, which spoils the grapes. The specifications cap sulphur dioxide; Tokaji Aszú may hold at most 400 mg/L.
Hazards the sources name: Osmotolerant spoilage yeasts (Starmerella and Zygosaccharomyces, including Z. lentus) in Tokaj botrytised wines during ageing, because of their residual sugar.
Every number is labelled with how it is known. How this atlas is made
Wikipedia reports a Hungarian legend that the first aszú was made in 1630, and that a text completed in 1576 already mentions wine from botrytised grapes. It also gives a popular story that a late harvest at Schloss Johannisberg in 1775 began Spätlese wines.
