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Soy and legumes from Japan — Niigata
Echigo miso is the salty red rice miso of Niigata. The cooked soybeans are pushed through a fine 1–3 mm screen, but the rice koji is kept whole, so the empty koji husks float when the miso is stirred into soup. It ripens warm for one to three months, and its yeast aroma is prized.
| Soybeans | Steamed or boiled; the uki-kōji type uses only domestic beans and boils them[MATSUMOTO-1998] |
| Rice for koji8 bu (at most 9 bu) | Whole polished rice; broken rice is not used for the uki-kōji type[MATSUMOTO-1998] |
| SaltAbout 12.5 % of the miso | [MATSUMOTO-1998] |
| Starter | koji (Aspergillus oryzae) grown on whole rice in trays or on a full bed; yeast for aroma |
Total time across the recorded steps: 32 days – 3 months
What changes: Whole polished rice soaks until water reaches the centre of each grain
Too much changing of the water washes out potassium and phosphorus the koji mould needs. Output: soaked whole rice.
Microbes at work in this step
Not documented for this step.
Measured measured in a studySet fixed by a specification or tested recipeReported one source reports itTypical a general value, not sourced for this fermentUnconfirmed not yet checked against a source
Echigo miso is the salty red rice miso of Niigata. The cooked soybeans are pushed through a fine 1–3 mm screen, but the rice koji is kept whole, so the empty koji husks float when the miso is stirred into soup. It ripens warm for one to three months, and its yeast aroma is prized. Made in 5 steps over 32 days – 3 months. The longest step, ferment and ripen, takes 30 days – 3 months (Matsumoto I 1998) and runs at 28–33 °C (Matsumoto I 1998). Salt is 12.5 % (Matsumoto I 1998). Aspergillus oryzae does most of the fermenting.
| Main step | 30 days – 3 monthsReported[MATSUMOTO-1998] | Ferment and ripen |
|---|---|---|
| Temperature | 28–33 °CReported[MATSUMOTO-1998] | Ferment and ripen |
| Salt | 12.5 %Reported[MATSUMOTO-1998] | Mix with the whole-grain koji and pack |
Most grain misos leave the beans coarse. Echigo miso does the opposite. The beans are pushed through a 1–3 mm screen, and the rice koji is kept whole and dried rather than salted, so it floats. Sendai miso, the other classic red salty miso, is made the Tōhoku way with coarsely crushed beans.
Souring and spoilage are the main failures. Matsumoto and Kumai trace most of them to wrong salt weighing or uneven mixing, so makers keep the salt within ±0.5 %.
Every number is labelled with how it is known. How this atlas is made
Local tradition says Uesugi Kenshin's troops learned miso making in Noda in 1564 and brought it home. Jōshūya of Nagaoka came with the lord Makino in 1618 and is counted the oldest maker. From mid-Meiji, Niigata miso was shipped to Kamchatka, the Kurils and Hokkaido until about 1944 [NIIGATA-1973].
