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Starters and koji from Korea

Meju (fermented soybean brick)메주

Meju is a brick of steamed, mashed soybeans that dries and ferments for one to two months, often tied with rice straw. Moulds such as Aspergillus and bacteria such as Bacillus do the fermenting. The finished bricks are soaked in salt brine to make ganjang (soy sauce) and doenjang (soybean paste), and ground meju goes into gochujang.

Fully documentedStarters and koji3.7 months

Recipe

Meju (fermented soybean brick), a photo from Wikimedia Commons
Photo: mspphoto, CC0, via Wikimedia Commons
Amounts from a sourceAmounts are from one study that made traditional meju from 40 kg of soybeans. Households work by the brick, with no fixed batch size.
Soybeans40 kgWashed and soaked overnight[jo2024]
Rice strawIn the room with the bricks during the first week[jo2024][kim2015]
No salt and no added starterMoulds and bacteria come from the beans, the straw and the air[kim2015][jo2024]
Starterspontaneous (rice straw and air); factory meju may be inoculated with Aspergillus oryzae

Total time across the recorded steps: 3.7 months

Start
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Close-up: water moving into a piece

What changes: Water soaks into the dry soybeans overnight

Step 1 of 6
Soak the soybeans overnight
Time
Not documented
Temperature
Not documented
Salt
None given
Acidity
Not documented
Which microbes the steps name, step by step
Aspergillus
Moulds
Bacillus

Output: swollen beans.

Flavour
Not documented
Texture
Not documented
Colour
Not documented

Microbes at work in this step

Not documented for this step.

Method

Measured measured in a studySet fixed by a specification or tested recipeReported one source reports itTypical a general value, not sourced for this fermentUnconfirmed not yet checked against a source

At a glance

Meju is a brick of steamed, mashed soybeans that dries and ferments for one to two months, often tied with rice straw. Moulds such as Aspergillus and bacteria such as Bacillus do the fermenting. The finished bricks are soaked in salt brine to make ganjang (soy sauce) and doenjang (soybean paste), and ground meju goes into gochujang. Made in 6 steps over 3.7 months. The longest step, wash and put into brine for jang, takes 2 months (Jo E 2024). Salt is 27.5 % (Jo E 2024). Bacillus and Aspergillus oryzae do most of the fermenting.

Key numbers
Main step2 monthsReported[jo2024]Wash and put into brine for jang
Temperature28 °CReported[jo2024]Dry warm with rice straw
Salt27.5 %Reported[jo2024]Wash and put into brine for jang
AciditypH 6.9Measured[lee2020]Ferment in open air

What makes this one different

Meju is made from soybeans alone, with no grain and no salt, and its moulds come from the straw and the air. Japanese miso koji is grown on rice or barley with a chosen Aspergillus oryzae culture instead.

Related ferments

Variants

  • Royal court mejuMade around the fourth month of the lunar calendar, while meju for home cooking was made around the tenth or twelfth month.
  • Sunchang gochujang mejuMeju for gochujang in Sunchang is made around August and September; for gochujang the soybeans may be mixed with rice, barley or wheat.
  • Factory mejuInoculated with an Aspergillus oryzae starter in some factories.
  • High-temperature meju (study)After the open-air stage, half the bricks were held at 37 °C and 40 % humidity instead of about 10 °C.

Safety

Naturally fermented meju can carry Bacillus cereus. One study found 1.7 × 10³ to 1.8 × 10⁴ CFU/g in meju after 60 days, and says the South Korean food authority reports that more than 10⁴ CFU/g in fermented soybean products may cause food poisoning. A few meju moulds can form aflatoxin. One survey of 533 Aspergillus strains found 14 A. flavus and 2 A. parasiticus. Most other strains in their group (section Flavi) were non-aflatoxin-forming A. oryzae and A. tamari, though that survey told A. oryzae from A. flavus by whether the strain made aflatoxin.

Hazards the sources name: Bacillus cereus (1.7 × 10³ to 1.8 × 10⁴ CFU/g in naturally fermented meju after 60 days); Aspergillus flavus (aflatoxin-forming; 14 of the 533 meju strains in one survey).

History and sources

Every number is labelled with how it is known. How this atlas is made

Korean records from AD 680 show that jang (soybean jiang) and kan jang (soy sauce) had come into Korea in the customary exchange of gifts between ruling houses (Shurtleff and Aoyagi, citing Wang and Lee 1978). The Samguk sagi reports meju among the wedding presents King Sinmun offered in February 683 (Wikipedia).

  1. [jo2024] Jo E., Lee H., Song Y., Cha J. 2024, Taxonomic variations of bacterial and fungal communities depending on fermentation temperature in traditional Korean fermented soybean food, doenjang, J. Microbiol. Biotechnol. 34(4):863–870, doi:10.4014/jmb.2312.12024paper
  2. [lee2020] Lee J.M., Heo S., Kim Y.S., Lee J.H., Jeong D.W. 2020, Culture-dependent and -independent investigations of bacterial migration into doenjang from its components meju and solar salt, PLoS One 15(10):e0239971paper
  3. [song2020] Song D.H., Chun B.H., Lee S., Reddy C.K., Jeon C.O., Lee C.H. 2020, Metabolite profiling and microbial community of traditional meju, J. Microbiol. Biotechnol. 30(11):1697–1705paper
  4. [hong2015] Hong S.B., Kim D.H., Samson R.A. 2015, Aspergillus associated with meju, a fermented soybean starting material for traditional soy sauce and soybean paste in Korea, Mycobiology 43(3):218–224, doi:10.5941/MYCO.2015.43.3.218paper
  5. [kim2015] Kim D.H., Kim S.H., Kwon S.W., Lee J.K., Hong S.B. 2015, The mycobiota of air inside and outside the meju fermentation room and the origin of meju fungi, Mycobiology 43(3):258–265paper
  6. [shukla2017] Shukla S., Park J., Park J.H., Lee J.S., Kim M. 2017, Development of novel meju starter culture using plant extracts with reduced Bacillus cereus counts and enhanced functional properties, Sci. Rep. 7:11409paper
  7. [WP-Meju] Wikipedia, Meju (variants only)wiki
  8. [SIC-miso1] Shurtleff W., Aoyagi A., History of Miso and Soybean Jiang, chapter of an unpublished manuscript on the Soyinfo Center website (history only)other