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Fish and seafood from Bangladesh

Lona ilishলোনা ইলিশ

Lona ilish ("salted hilsa") is hilsa cut into steaks, dry-salted and drained for two days, then packed tight in tins under saturated brine to mature for months. Fish and microbial enzymes slowly break down the protein, and the steaks turn pink and glossy with a strong, slightly sweet and fruity aroma.

Fully documentedFish and seafood4.1 months – 6.1 months

Recipe

Amounts from a sourceThe laboratory batch of Majumdar and Basu 2010, made following the traditional method in 5-litre tin-coated steel containers.
Hilsa steaks, 1.25–2.0 cm thick4 or 5 parts by weightFish of 600–800 g, washed, descaled and beheaded without removing the gut[majumdar2010]
Salt, for dry salting1 part by weight[majumdar2010]
Saturated brine, boiled and cooledTo 2 cm above the fish[majumdar2010]

Total time across the recorded steps: 4.1 months – 6.1 months

Start
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What changes: The hilsa is beheaded and cut across into thick steaks

Step 1 of 4
Wash, descale, behead and cut into steaks
Time
Not documented
Temperature
Not documented
Salt
None given
Acidity
Not documented
Flavour
Not documented
Texture
Not documented
Colour
Not documented

Microbes at work in this step

Not documented for this step.

Method

Measured measured in a studySet fixed by a specification or tested recipeReported one source reports itTypical a general value, not sourced for this fermentUnconfirmed not yet checked against a source

At a glance

Lona ilish ("salted hilsa") is hilsa cut into steaks, dry-salted and drained for two days, then packed tight in tins under saturated brine to mature for months. Fish and microbial enzymes slowly break down the protein, and the steaks turn pink and glossy with a strong, slightly sweet and fruity aroma. Made in 4 steps over 4.1 months – 6.1 months. The longest step, mature in the brine, takes 4–6 months (Majumdar R.K 2010). Salt is 0.2 % → 13.65 % (Majumdar R.K 2010).

Key numbers
Main step4–6 monthsReported[majumdar2010][majumdar-ijtk2010]Mature in the brine
Salt0.2 % → 13.65 %Measured[majumdar2010]Dry-salt in a covered bamboo basket and let the brine drain
AciditypH 5.9 → 5.28Measured[majumdar2010]Mature in the brine

What makes this one different

Lona ilish is made exclusively from hilsa, cut into steaks, and matures under saturated brine. Shidal, by contrast, is small unsalted sun-dried fish sealed in earthen pots.

Related ferments

Safety

High salt (15.48 %), intermediate moisture (49.89 %) and low pH (5.28) made the product stable at ambient temperature (Majumdar and Basu 2010). Its fat oxidises easily. In nitrogen-flushed opaque pouches it stayed acceptable for 180 days, but in transparent pouches the peroxide value rose to 68.57 and it was rejected by day 60 (Majumdar and Basu 2009).

History and sources

Every number is labelled with how it is known. How this atlas is made

Majumdar and Basu (2010) say the technology began in Bangladesh about 100 years before their paper, on the banks of the Padma and Meghna rivers in Noakhali district. They assume it grew up in the hilsa glut, when salting was the only affordable way to keep a fatty fish that could not be sun-dried, especially in the rains of July and August, and that it reached Northeast India through migrants.

Starter
The sources we found do not say how its fermentation begins.
  1. [majumdar2010] Majumdar R.K., Basu S. 2010, Changes in the nitrogenous compounds during fermentation of hilsa steaks, Fishery Technology 47(2):167-172paper
  2. [majumdar-ijtk2010] Majumdar R.K., Basu S. 2010, Characterization of the traditional fermented fish product Lona ilish of Northeast India, Indian Journal of Traditional Knowledge 9(3):453-458paper
  3. [majumdar2005] Majumdar R.K., Basu S., Anandan R. 2005, Biochemical and microbiological characteristics of salt fermented hilsa (Tenualosa ilisha), Fishery Technology 42(1) (abstract)paper
  4. [majumdar2009] Majumdar R.K., Basu S. 2009, Evaluation of the influence of inert atmosphere packaging on the quality of salt-fermented Indian shad, International Journal of Food Science and Technology 44:2554-2560 (abstract, Europe PMC)paper
  5. [narzary2021] Narzary Y., Das S., Goyal A., Lam S., Sarma H., Sharma D. 2021, Fermented fish products in South and Southeast Asian cuisine, indigenous technology processes, nutrient composition, and cultural significance, Journal of Ethnic Foods 8paper