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Fish and seafood from Türkiye

Lakerdaλακέρδα

Thick steaks of Atlantic bonito are cleaned, soaked in cold brine and packed in layers of dry salt under a weight, then ripened in the cold for weeks. This is a salt cure, not a microbial ferment. Salt draws water out while the fish's own enzymes change its texture, and bacterial numbers stay low.

Fully documentedFish and seafood10 days – 20 days

Recipe

Lakerda, a photo from Wikimedia Commons
Photo: Maor X, CC BY 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Amounts from a sourcePer 1 kg of bonito slices, from a 2025 study that followed the traditional method. An earlier study used fish and salt at 5 to 1 by weight.
Atlantic bonito, gutted, head and tail off, cut into chunks about 4 cm thick1 kg[altan2025]
Rock salt, for dry salting300 g30 % of the fish weight[altan2025]
Ice-cold 5 % salt water, then plain ice waterAs neededFor soaking the chunks clean before salting[altan2025]

Total time across the recorded steps: 10 days – 20 days

Start
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What changes: The bonito is gutted and cut into thick chunks, and the backbone is cleaned out

Step 1 of 5
Gut and cut into thick chunks
Time
Not documented
Temperature
Not documented
Salt
None given
Acidity
Not documented

Head and tail are cut off, the guts removed, and a thin skewer is pushed along the backbone to clean out the spinal cord. Output: bonito chunks about 4 cm thick.

Flavour
Not documented
Texture
Not documented
Colour
Not documented

Microbes at work in this step

Not documented for this step.

Method

Measured measured in a studySet fixed by a specification or tested recipeReported one source reports itTypical a general value, not sourced for this fermentUnconfirmed not yet checked against a source

At a glance

Thick steaks of Atlantic bonito are cleaned, soaked in cold brine and packed in layers of dry salt under a weight, then ripened in the cold for weeks. This is a salt cure, not a microbial ferment. Salt draws water out while the fish's own enzymes change its texture, and bacterial numbers stay low. Made in 5 steps over 10 days – 20 days. The longest step, ripen in the cold in its own brine, takes 10–20 days (Altan C.O. 2025) and runs at 3–5 °C (Altan C.O. 2025). Salt is 5 % (Altan C.O. 2025).

Key numbers
Main step10–20 daysReported[altan2025]Ripen in the cold in its own brine
Temperature3–5 °CReported[altan2025][turan2006]Ripen in the cold in its own brine
Salt5 %Reported[altan2025]Soak in iced brine, then ice water
AciditypH 6.9Measured[altan2025]Ripen in the cold in its own brine

What makes this one different

Lakerda is a dry salt cure of bonito steaks, ripened cold. Unlike pla ra or rakfisk there is no lactic stage and no rice or sugar; salt and the fish's own enzymes do the work.

Related ferments

Variants

  • Lakerda from young tunaMade the same way from young tuna instead of bonito.

Safety

At 4 °C, bacteria and yeasts did not multiply over 6 months in salted bonito. Biogenic amines fell during ripening in one study, to 63.93–68.79 mg/kg in total in the finished product; the FDA warns that histamine can form while fish is salted until the product is shelf-stable, that refrigeration holds it back, and that cooking or freezing cannot remove it once formed. So keep the fish cold from the start. Since 2024 the FDA treats 35 ppm histamine in one sample unit as decomposition and 200 ppm as the level where illness is possible. Lakerda is eaten without cooking, and salt does not reliably kill parasites in raw fish. The FDA says brining does not eliminate that hazard and that nematode larvae have survived 28 days in brine of 21 % salt. It gives −20 °C for 7 days as enough to kill parasites, so freeze the fish first.

History and sources

Every number is labelled with how it is known. How this atlas is made

Salted bonito and tuna have long been made on the Black Sea and Mediterranean coasts so that fish can be eaten out of season (Altan 2025). Wikipedia, citing Dalby (2003), says lakerda is very similar to an ancient Greek dish, tarikhos horaion, "ripe salted fish".

Starter
The sources we found do not say how its fermentation begins.
  1. [altan2025] Altan C.O. 2025, Monitoring physicochemical attributes and nutritional alterations in lakerda during early-stage and intermediate maturation periods, a preliminary research, Mar. Sci. Technol. Bull. 14(3):139–148, doi:10.33714/masteb.1757035paper
  2. [turan2006] Turan H., Kaya Y., Erkoyuncu I., Sönmez G. 2006, Chemical and microbiological qualities of dry-salted (lakerda) bonito (Sarda sarda), J. Food Qual. 29(5):470–478, doi:10.1111/j.1745-4557.2006.00087.x (abstract)paper
  3. [ormanci2017] Ormancı H.B. and Arık Çolakoğlu F. 2017, Changes in biogenic amines levels of lakerda (salted Atlantic bonito) during ripening at different temperatures, J. Food Process. Preserv. 41(1):e12736, doi:10.1111/jfpp.12736 (abstract)paper
  4. [fda-ch7] US FDA 2011, Fish and Fishery Products Hazards and Controls Guidance, 4th ed., Chapter 7, Scombrotoxin (histamine) formationgov
  5. [fda-cpg2024] US FDA 2024, FDA issues final compliance policy guide for scombrotoxin (histamine)-forming fish and fishery products, constituent update, 1 November 2024gov
  6. [fda-guide] US FDA, Fish and Fishery Products Hazards and Controls Guidance, June 2022 edition, Chapter 5, Parasitesgov
  7. [s1] Wikipedia, Lakerda (name history and serving only)wiki