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Eggs from Thailand

Khai-khem (boundary: salt-cured, not fermented)ไข่เค็ม

Duck eggs are kept under strong salt brine, or coated in salted clay and rolled in rice husk or ash, for two to three weeks in the shade. Salt moves through the shell, the yolk sets firm and the white stays much like a fresh egg. It is a salt cure with no microbial fermentation.

Fully documentedEggs30 days – 41 days

Recipe

Amounts from a sourceHousehold amounts from the JIRCAS Thai fermented foods database. A laboratory version used 26 % (w/v) salt brine at 1 part eggs to 3 parts brine.
Brine, boiled, strained and cooled (brine method)1 cup salt to 4 cups water[jircas]
Salted clay coat, rested 2 nights (clay method)2 cups fine salt and 6 cups semi-solid clay for 20 eggs[jircas]
Rice husk or charcoal ash, to keep coated eggs apart[jircas]
Fresh duck eggs, washed[jircas][wongnen2023]

Total time across the recorded steps: 30 days – 41 days

Start
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What changes: Starting material: fresh duck eggs, washed and checked for cracks

Step 1 of 4
Wash and dry the eggs
Time
Not documented
Temperature
Not documented
Salt
None given
Acidity
Not documented

Output: clean, uncracked eggs.

Flavour
Not documented
Texture
Not documented
Colour
Not documented

Microbes at work in this step

Not documented for this step.

Method

Measured measured in a studySet fixed by a specification or tested recipeReported one source reports itTypical a general value, not sourced for this fermentUnconfirmed not yet checked against a source

At a glance

Duck eggs are kept under strong salt brine, or coated in salted clay and rolled in rice husk or ash, for two to three weeks in the shade. Salt moves through the shell, the yolk sets firm and the white stays much like a fresh egg. It is a salt cure with no microbial fermentation. Made in 4 steps over 30 days – 41 days. The longest step, cover with brine and weigh down, takes 15–21 days (Japan International Research Center for Agric…) and runs at 27–29 °C (Wongnen C 2023). Salt is 26 % (Wongnen C 2023).

Key numbers
Main step15–21 daysReported[jircas][wongnen2023]Cover with brine and weigh down
Temperature27–29 °CReported[wongnen2023]Cover with brine and weigh down
Salt26 %Reported[wongnen2023]Cover with brine and weigh down

What makes this one different

Khai-khem is cured only by salt, which sets the yolk. Century egg uses alkali, which turns the white to jelly; zaodan uses rice wine.

Related ferments

Variants

  • Clay-coated khai-khemCoated in salted clay and rice husk or ash instead of brined.

Safety

Raw eggs are perishable and prone to contamination by Salmonella (Wongnen et al.). JIRCAS lists the salted eggs as boiled or fried before eating and gives a storage life of 1 month. No source here shows that the salt cure kills Salmonella, so do not eat them uncooked. The FDA says to cook eggs until both the yolk and the white are firm.

Hazards the sources name: Salmonella spp. (raw eggs are perishable and prone to contamination by it).

History and sources

Every number is labelled with how it is known. How this atlas is made

Zheng et al. (2023) call salted and preserved eggs the main pickled egg products and describe the traditional salted-egg method as wrapping eggs in a soil or ash and salt mixture, or soaking them in a salt solution for 20 to 35 days.

Starter
The sources we found do not say how its fermentation begins.
  1. [jircas] Japan International Research Center for Agricultural Sciences (JIRCAS), Thai fermented foods database, Khai-khem (salted eggs)gov
  2. [wongnen2023] Wongnen C., Panpipat W., Saelee N., Rawdkuen S., Grossmann L., Chaijan M. 2023, A novel approach for the production of mildly salted duck egg using ozonized brine salting, Foods 12(11):2261paper
  3. [zheng2023] Zheng M., Chen S., Yao Y. et al. 2023, A review on the development of pickled eggs, rapid pickling and quality optimization, Poultry Science 102:102468paper
  4. [fda-eggs] US Food and Drug Administration, What you need to know about egg safetygov